NEw wiring...now no starter?!?

So my '77 KZ1000A has compression a little on the low side but I decided to proceed with planned upgrades this year (already purchased). I added the Dyna ignition, 3 ohm coils, new 7mm wires and attempted WG's wiring upgrade to better power the coils. After I got everything wired up and back together I tried to start her up and....NOTHING!! I have power (lights come on) but when I hit the starter button I get nothing. I hear a 'click' at the new relay when I turn the key on so I assume there is power there. I have never dealt with wiring before (or much else for the matter) so where do I start?!?

You say,"New relay"...IS it new?
Do You have a wiring diagram(or a manual) for that bike?
I can post a wiring diagram if You need.(or email it to You,so the size is bigger).
You also say You "Hear a click when I turn the key on".
Are You hearing this "Click" as SOON as You turn the key on,without hitting the start button?

The click you hear is likely from the newly installed coil repowering relay. Now the starter doesn't work? The same switched power that is triggering your coils to work is also the power that triggers your starter solenoid. First thing to do here then is to get a multimeter and open your right switchgear by removing the two 5mm bolts or screws. Turn the key on and check for voltage INSIDE th switch gear. Since I can't remember all the wiring colors inside the kill switch, have a look and you will see a wire going into the kill switch and coming out. That is the wire that powers your coils. You should be able to measure 12VDC using the multimeter (or you could use a test light for this) by putting the POS (red) probe on the wire contact with the swich input and the NEG (black) probe on a bolt somewhere on your handlebars for a ground. You WILL have 12VDC going into the switch since the coil relay is clicking on. Next, you will see a wire looping down to the back of the starter button contact. That should be 12VDC as well. Check it. See how when you push the starter button there is yet another wire coming off the contact... I THINK this wire will be black and this IS the wire that goes to your starter solenoid to trigger it like you triggered the coil repowering relay. Anyway, with the key on, press the starter button and see if you have 12VDC on this wire with the button pushed. If not, clean the contacts on the button and in the switch and repeat if necessary. If no voltage gets through the button, you will need to replace the button and possibly the contact for the button. If you HAVE 12VDC with the button pushed but the starter doesn't kick over, then go to the starter solenoid and check for voltage on the trigger wire there when the button is pushed (extra hands needed here probably). If you get voltage when the button is pushed, the starter solenoid is suspect. To check, turn the key off. This cuts power to the coils. Take a piece of 12 ga wire and bridge it across the terminal on the solenoid where the battery connects and the terminal where the wire going to the starter connects. These are the MAIN terminals that are studs with nuts on the ends. If the starter turns over, the starter is good but the solenoid is bad because the trigger signal doesn't close the internal contacts and the solenoid will need replaced....geesh, this got long winded... If the starter does NOT kick over when you jumper the solenoid, the starter or starter clutch is the culprit.

Actually the problem was much more simple than we all expected. I found the wire that connects to the clutch had been erroneously disconnected during my wiring job. I plugged that back in and put in new spark plugs and she started right up. Just got back from my first ride this season. Now I'm headed out for the second right of the season!!!

Simple is ALWAYS good.
Wiredgeorge , you gave a very good lesson in as I call it, "isolate and test components" electrical trouble-shooting. Knowing how to use a meter REALLY makes a difference.