kz 1000 stator 3 wires what are they

i need to know the three wirs blue yellow and pink
which one is nutral wire
pleeeeeeeees help

neeed this info asap!!!

Post edited by: helitec, at: 2006/05/02 11:14

check the file base for wiring schmedics. and modify you signiture put your year make and model and location in there so we know what you are trying to repair and if there is some one close to you they may be able to come bye and give you a hand

It is 3-phase. There is no "neutral". Some older regulators need to receive the phases in sequence so the colors matter for those old regulators. New regulators do not care about the order of the phases so usually their colors are the same (yellow or white on KZ's).

loudhvx... He might be talking about the harness coming off the stator. On all KZ1000s I know, the three wires off the stator are yellow. There is also a blue (or is it blue/red wire going to the oil pressure pickup? and a GREEN wire going to the neutral switch. Never heard of a pink wire being use for the neutral switch on the countershaft sprocket.

helitec - Since there are at least 27 ga-zillion KZ1000 models, EDIT YOUR PROFILE/SIGNATURE and put the bike year/model and hopefully your location. I am not going to look up wiring diagrams to figure out wiring issues if I don't know what bike is being discussed. Just a minimum of info will go a long way to helping you solve whatever problems you have. (PLEASE READ THE RULES AT THE TOP OF THE SECTION!). Thanks wg (moderator)

Pink, Blue, and Yellow are the colors to the stator on the 77/78 KZ1000 diagram. The sequencing makes a difference on some regulators.

If he's asking about the neutral-gear indicator, that looks like it is a green/red wire.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/05/03 13:18

These image limits are driving me crazy

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/05/03 13:22

That is interesting... the three wires off the stator on my 76 (KZ900 or Z1 engines) use 3 yellow wires from the stator... doesn't matter which goes to which on the plug that connects to the regulator. The same is true on a J motor (81/82 etc) and the same is true on my 79 and 80 ST bikes... all use three yellow wires from the stator. I wonder why the 77/78 uses different wires. Again, answering questions are easier if a person notes his bike year/model. I just looked in a 73-80 Clymers with colored diagrams and ALL are yellow except for the year you specified 77/78 KZ1000... weird! The 73-75 Z1s also use the pink, blue and yellow wiring from the stator (called an alternator in all drawings) and I KNOW I have used 73-75 stators on my 76. I always remove the old wires anyway and replace them with new wiring as the oil and heat tend to crisp these wires. I am thinking it probably doesn't matter how the wires go since I have used early Z1 stators on my 76 without wiring them specifically as the blue,pink,yellow wires seem to... I will have to do some checking to see what is going on and report back in... Jeff will know for sure I think and I will ask him!

On some regulator designs, the sequence of the phases makes a difference. One phase is used to trigger another phase for shunting. If they are in the wrong order, the phases will not shunt completely. This may lead to a higher voltage than normal, or a premature failure of the regulator because one phase will get all or most of the shunting. I'll have to review my notes on this topic, but you might not see any symptoms until it fails. Most regulators don't care so most bikes won't have any issue. Kawasaki may have had some old stators with three color wires that they wanted to use up and so in that case the colors wouldn't matter.

An o-scope test would be the only way to tell if you have a sequential-shunt regulator, or a group-shunt regulator.

In the 73-80 Clymer for the 900/1000 models, the 73-75 Z1 wiring digragms show the wires off the stator as blue, pink and yellow. The 76 shows them as all yellow. The 77/78 shows them as blue, pink and yellow. The 79/80 shows them all yellow. I know the J motor bikes are all yellow as well.

In any case, the Z1 color wiring diagram is DEFINITELY incorrect as I confirmed with Jeff Saunders that he, like I, have NEVER seen blue/yellow/pink on a Z1. They are DEFINITELY all yellow.

I also talked with him about the stator on the 77/78 and he confirmed it is the same one used on the 76 KZ900 and it doesn't matter how the blue/yellow/pink wires are connected as it doesn't matter how the yellow wires connect on the harnesses using all yellow. Not sure why Kaw went with the odd colors in 77/78.

This info applies only to 900/1000 and the J engine only. Don't know about the smaller bikes.

Here's the circuit diagram from the KZ900 (not 1000, but is probably the same) Shop Manual.

Here is the inside of a 77 KZ1000 regulator. Note the wire colors going to it are three different colors.

Also note that there are only two big SCR's and not three. That is because this particular regulator uses a sequential shunting design.

If the wires were swapped around, it would not regulate as well as when in the proper sequence.

The stators are symmetrical so if you use the stator on another bike with a group-shunting regulator, it will work fine and the colors won't matter.



The photo is courtesy of Jerome Rogers who actually repaired this unit and made it work for $10 instead of $340 which Kawasaki wanted.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/05/04 10:34

ltdrider wrote:

Here's the circuit diagram from the KZ900 (not 1000, but is probably the same) Shop Manual.

Thank you ltdrider, that illustrates it nicely.

Note that the rectifier has 3 yellows. The rectifier does not care about sequence. The regulator is what cares about sequence and that is why the regulator must keep the proper colors.

BTW I should have called it batch-shunting instead of group-shunting.

So, I'm sure you're asking yourself "why do some regulators use sequential-shunt (3 color coded) and some batch-shunt (all same color)"? Well, sequential-shunt regulates by shunting all 3 phases everytime, in sequence. Batch-shunting tries to shunt all three phases at once, but only one phase is at it's full positive cycle so only that one phase will get shunted if the battery voltage is near the threshold voltage. Theoretically, the 3 phases should get shunted randomly and evenly. But, batch-shunting often causes a situation where only the strongest of the three phases gets shunted most of the time. The batch-shunting may stress out one that one single phase of the stator. (Stators often have one phase that is slightly stronger due to inconsistent manufacturing.)

I think Kawasaki later realized that their stators are pretty damn good and didn't need the protection of sequential-shunting. So to simplify things (there has been at least one post about re-wiring the stator where the color sequence was lost!) Kawasaki, as well as most manufacturers, just went to batch-shunting. But this is only speculation.

Also, in the early days of Thyristors (SCR's), those components were more expensive. Sequential-shunting would be cheaper. But electronic components are pretty much dirt-cheap now.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/05/04 11:39