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coil output

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26 Mar 2006 18:02 #34527 by michigans
coil output was created by michigans
i am getting 11.4 v. going into the coils and 12.3 v at the battery terminals. would it be worth doing the electrical modification i see on here all the time. or should i just wait until something happens

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26 Mar 2006 20:09 #34582 by N0NB
Replied by N0NB on topic coil output
I would think the mod would be worthwhile. A drop of 1 volt before the coils is quite a bit.

- Nate >>

Nate

Nates vintage bike axiom: Riding is the reward for time spent wrenching.
Murphys corollary: Wrenching is the result of time spent riding.

1979 KZ650 (Complete!)
1979 KZ650 SR (Sold!)
1979 KL250 (For sale)
1994 Bayou 400 (four wheel peel :D )

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27 Mar 2006 14:22 #34731 by Scotty355
Replied by Scotty355 on topic coil output
I had about the same drop in voltage and did the mod my 750 now starts alot quiker and sounds smoother I have not been able to take it for a ride yet but it seems to have made a differance.

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27 Mar 2006 21:13 #34844 by giftofthegods77
Replied by giftofthegods77 on topic coil output
There's been so much hoopla about this coil mod that I am thinking about doing it myself. My bike is hard to start, although it does start.

My question is this: Is there a reason to NOT do the WG coil mod?

Thanks

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28 Mar 2006 05:34 #34886 by KZQ
Replied by KZQ on topic Yes!
The coil mod involves bypassing an number of electrical connections that may be corroded. I've never had any problem identifying the bad connections and cleaning them up. If you add a side circuit you will probably help the coils but what about the rest of your bike's electrical system. As a short term fix it's fine but no substitute for good maintence.

KZCSI

www.KZ1300.com
Riders:
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
Projects:
1985 ZN1300

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29 Mar 2006 06:45 #35145 by wiredgeorge
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic Yes!
Bad connections and corrosion should be cleaned. I suggest that worn contacts in the ignition switch and kill switch are not exactly the same issue. They are worn and perhaps not corroded. I suggest someone write an article on how to restore worn contacts. I actually wrote one on restoring the kill switch some time in the past but have no idea what happened to it on the old site. It is pretty much a pain as the plastic trough inside the kill switch that the ball bearing rides in wears deeper and the detents don't engage as positively as when new. The ignition switch can similarly be disassembled (watch out for small springs and ball bearings) but once in there, if the the copper contacts are worn, you can really only replace the entire switch unit. Now if you have an ignition switch and kill switch which are in good condition and all that is wrong is corrosion in the connectors, DO NOT bypass cleaning all connectors on your bike as there will be corrosion present that will dimish the bike's starting ability, the ability to charge and make other electrical components operate erratically (lights/horn etc).

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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