2,3 coil possibly bad?

wiredgeorge wrote:

...If you have power, then you can check the coil. Put your multimeter in OHMS and put it on the lowest setting. Keep your ignition switched off. Put your leads on the lugs where the power lead is and the green wire lead. You should have about 3.8 ohms impedence (primary coil windings are good)...

Both sets of points should be held open for this test and both condensers must not be shorted for the results to be accurate.

I think it would be better to actually remove the positive wire from both coils during this test to isolate the coils from the rest of the circuits in the bike.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2005/12/23 15:15

wiredgeorge wrote:

Put a multimeter POS lead on the lug on the 2/3 coil where the power wire is hooked in... it should be yellow/red. The wire from your points is on the other lug and green. Put the NEG lead on a frame ground. Turn the key on. If you have power, the power part is OK and if not, then you can ONLY have a bad wire going from the coil back to the two-out plug on the main harness where the OTHER power wire that is powering the 1/4 coil comes from and it wouldn't be firing if there was something wrong on the other side of that plug.

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I have a question about the above - Coming of my coil I have green on the top screw and red on the bottom screw - Plus what looks like to be a big ground - So do I just put a meter across those two screws?



Thanks

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Also I did swap around the coils and the problem stayed with 2,3 - So niether of my coils are bad.


Thanks everyone for helping me out -

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/23 17:14

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/23 17:16

update I put a Volt meter across the 2,3 coil

POS to the green and got 60V
POS to the other and got 60V

Did the same on the other side and received the same amount


I put the meter in OHMs and received about the same for both sides between 1-2 OHMs



I have a really junk meter - I am getting a better one tomorrow - But from these findings I am really confused - If I am receiving the same reading at the coil and have already swapped around the coils - How come its not firing?


Hope everyone has a good holiday

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/23 17:42

Mod;
Merry Christmas to you.
You have to get a signal from points or ignitor to activate the coil.

Alright, then you know you have 2 good spark-coils. The problem is either the ignitor (more likely), or you have a defective pickup-coil (less likely).

You can test the pickup-coils by the method I mentioned above.

I'm confused by your voltage test on the spark-coils. Obviously 60 volts is way too high. You only have about 13v to work with. I assume you meant 6 volts?

You are measuring the voltage from the positive connection to the negative connection on the coil?

I did your Ohm test and found a bad pick up coil - Just purchased one

DYDS2-1
Dyna-S Electronic Ignition DS2-1 - Kawasaki Z1 KZ900 KZ1000


I just got my Repair Manual - Its on cd - It has Hanyes and Chilton - Plus a bunch of different years - Its in pdf format!




loudhvx wrote:

Alright, then you know you have 2 good spark-coils. The problem is either the ignitor (more likely), or you have a defective pickup-coil (less likely).

You can test the pickup-coils by the method I mentioned above.

I'm confused by your voltage test on the spark-coils. Obviously 60 volts is way too high. You only have about 13v to work with. I assume you meant 6 volts?

You are measuring the voltage from the positive connection to the negative connection on the coil?

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/24 15:56

The Dyna S you bought isn't a pickup coil... in other words, you won't use your igniter with this thing... there are three wires coming off the Dyna S. A black, white and red as memory serves. The red is hooked into your coil powering wire to power the Dyna S. The other two wires connect to your coils in place of the current wires coming off your igniter. Note that no matter what color these wires are, one has a black band on its end and the other a green band. The black band goes to the left coil as you sit on the bike and is for 1/4 plugs/coil and the green to the right coil and it is for 2/3. You will need a timing light to time the thing. You probably will need another mechanical advance since yours likely only has timing marks for 1/4. Get one from an earlier model with timing marks for both 1/4 and 2/3. Then time 1/4 using the timing light by rotating the plate with the three screws loose. To time 2/3 (you put pick up on #3 plug wire of course), you loosen the the two socket head screws holding the right hand pick up and move it around till it is timed at idle (to the F between 2 and 3). Make sure the advance is working on the new mechanical advance by increasing rpms and noting the advance turning counterclockwise.

So whats the pick coil?

The stock electronic ignition from Kawasaki uses an ignitor (which is the box you have pictured) and a set of small pickup coils mounted on the engine, under the timing cover. The ignition-rotor spins between the pickups and is mounted to the end of the crankshaft.

The Dyna-S is a replacement electronic ignition. It uses an integrated design. The components of the ignitor box are built onto the timing plate which hold the pickups. The pickups, in this case are solid-state devices. The ignitor components are integrated with the pickups so that everything fits under the timing cover. The rotor that comes with the Dyna-S is different from the rotor of the stock ignition.

Here's a photo of the stock pickups and rotor from a KZ550.

So the question is, what did you measure?

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2005/12/25 01:50

So okay - THat is the pick up coil so I am on the right track just didnt relize what I had bought wouldnt be a straight swap out - I measured the pick up coil as you stated in Ohms - One pair Ohmed out fine - The other pair didnt measure any resistance at all - So I was thinking okay my pick coil is the problem - That is why I bought that Dyna S - Thinking it was a straight swap out - No problem I can call them Tuesday and cancel the order - But where would I find a stock pick up coil or should I upgrade - But before I go to much farther it was mentioned I would have to time my beast - Dont have a timing gun handy thats for sure - But would I have to do this with a straight stock for stock swap out - I guess the reason I am asking why I would have to time it is - The bike was running fine - So basically if I did the Dyna S upgrade that is when I would have to time it?



From your picture I didnt get any resistance from the red yellow pair
Thanks a ton everyone -

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/25 22:41

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/25 22:42

Post edited by: modest911, at: 2005/12/25 22:43

Essentially, the stock Kaw pickup coils and advance don't really have any good way to time them. You have to trust they are timed correctly. Note there is no timing marks for the 2/3 cylinders on your stock advance mechanism. If you get a Dyna S, you WILL have to time the unit. It is an easy install and timing is a snap. You first remove old stuff... that means the pickup coils, the igniter and the wires going to the coils (black and green) which are attached to the igniter. Then you put the Dyna S in place. You will need an earlier style mechnical advance with timing marks for both cylinder pairs (1&4 and 2&3). Once the new stuff is in place, connect the green wire to the 2/3 coil (right as you sit on bike) and black (1/4 as you sit on bike). You will need to splice the little red wire from the Dyna S into your coil powering wires (yellow/red). Then get a timing light. Put the pickup on the #4 plug wire (connect power aligator clips to battery) and start the bike. Once it idles smoothly, loosen the 3 retaining screws that hold the Dyna S backplate in place and rotate the backplate so that the stobe lights the F mark on the advance and the mark on the case. Once you have it lined up, tighten down the three mount screws. The 1/4 side is timed. You can probably keep the strobe on the #4 plugwire and run the bike up past 3K rpm to ensure the mechanical advance is working right...

Next, loosen the two small socket head bolts holding the right hand pickup. Put your timing light pickup on #3 plug wire and start the bike. Move the pickup itself slightly to where the mark on the case and F mark on the advance align at idle. Tighten down the two socket heads and you are done. Button it up and forget it.

Man - Didnt know I was getting in this deep - haha - Probably not a big deal to yo guys - But for someone with my skills this is a big challenge - Anyway -


If I use stock will I have to time the bike?