Re:kz 1000 Resistor

I'm looking in my Clymer manual(which covers Z&KZ 900-1000 chain & shaft drive '73-81 and includes the C series Police models) and I don't see any resistors for '73-'74 Z1, '75-'76 KZ900, '77-'78 KZ1000 & KZLTD, '79 KZ1000 LTD, '79-'80 KZ1000 Standard & KZ1000 Shaft drive but...
I do see resistors for the '78 KZ1000 Z1R, '80 KZ1000 Z1R, '80 KZ1000 LTD, '80KZ1000 Classic.
It's my understanding that resistors do just what the name states they resist which means according to the rating to a particular resistor when in the circuit it cuts down on the electricity going through them.

Of course there are a few other guys who are more knowledgeable then me on electrics of these bikes.

Yes, it is a resistor. It limits the current to the coil. It is used to limit the maximum current in the coil, but the problem is that it also limits the current to the coil all the time. Coils take a small amount of time to reach their maximum current. The resistor limits what the maximum will be. Unfortunately, it also reduces the current when the coil is not at its maximum current.

A true ballast resistor increases resistance with heat. At idle, the resistor is at its hottest. That's when you want to limit the coil's current. It works ok, but the resistor is slow-acting.

A regular resistor can be used, but its resistance doesn't vary as much.

A better method is to use a variable-dwell-angle ignition and do away with the resistor. Kawasaki eventually did this with their early 80's (79 maybe) ignitions.

The ballast was meant to save wear on the points and helps keep the coil cooler at idle. With heartier coils and ignitions, you don't need the resistor.

Also, at startup, you want full power to the coils so often the resistor gets bypassed on startup or there will be a third tap on the resistor which provides less resistance during startup. I don't think KZ's use the bypass method, though.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2005/12/10 17:22