pilot screw

TexasKZ wrote:

Seems to me that you could cover the holes drilled in the slides with a little dab of gasket maker or sealant to see how the carbs act without the holes. If it is worse or no better, the stuff can be scraped off. If it is better, a more permanent plugging could be used.

I have to say I am confused by this?

Injected mentioned that drilling the slides as Dynojet recommends can lead to slide fluttering. In your response, you noted that your contact at Dynojet said that many people do not drill them. You did not say whether or not your slides have been drilled.

My point is that, assuming your slides have been drilled, it would be fairly simple to find out if the holes are causing the slides to flutter.

My proposal is to temporarily plug the holes to see if that improves the problem you are having.
If this improves the situation, then I would consider permanently plugging the holes.
If there is no improvement, then the temporary plugging can easily be removed.

I was not understanding that but now I do. I have not drilled them as yet. I am currently following up with my plan to add another washer under the needle. Let's see?

thanks
 

A third washer should put you past the next notch on the needle, so it seems to me that moving the clip down one notch should be the next move.

thanks to TexasKZ, the tapered needle that was installed 40 years ago does not have notches, so I simply installed the fourth washer with the others. The result was mixed. While it may have helped with the surging (again may have), it has definitely effected the top end. The bike now has hesitation when gunning it above 5 to 6 thousand RPM. The stock main jet is 125. What I have in there now is 140. Is it now calling for a bigger main jet?  Lost again with this venture. Do I have no choice but to buy the dynojet kit. All I will be able to use is the four needles. 

All the Dynojet needles I have seen have notches and an E-clip to adjust the height. No notches may be factory needles. Mixing needles and jets from different manufacturers can cause problems.

TexasKZ, I agree. I have seen the dynojet needles. The one on my bike is definitely tapered, not stock but I don't know the manufacturer.  

Thanks to all who keep reading this. 

    I broke down and bought the dyno-jet kit. The needle I've been using is tapered the same way as the dyno-jet, but the dyno jet is a little longer. The dyno-jet needle has notches, the other has a T-cap so to speak. Before I started shimming with washers to raise the needle, the needle had a loose-ness to it. Once you start shimming with washers the needle becomes rigid. That I believe could have been part of the problem. The dyno-jet needle has the loose-ness/tolerance needed for the operation. The instructions recommend placing the C-clip on the 4th notch. The people at dyno-jet refuse to give any insight to a bore-kit and my bike has been bored to 810cc. The guy said he was quite experienced with re-jetting but would only explain to me how to read the direction's. Our conversation became slightly terse when I questioned his experience? Anyway, contrary to the directions I started with the C-clip in the 5th notch. I have not changed the main jet as yet. I was told the opening sizes of theirs and other jets are the same. The bike runs the best it has ever run, give it the gas and wow, but ....... I'm still dealing with the surging and the holding back feeling. I know some will say change the main jet too, but the problem is not there (I'm trying to avoid taking the carbs off yet again.) The pilot jet is the biggest I can get for this bike. I can live with it the way it is but of course I would like to complete the job. The question now is leave it be or move the C-clip to the 6th notch. Many have said the surging is running lean. The directions say put two washers over the clip on the fourth notch. Will I need more washers at the sixth notch? Also, the slides have two small holes in it. I don't know if this is stock or not. They were not put there by me.

thanks again!