Boy did I do a job on the carb runner bolts 77' KZ650B1

OK. First off, didn't have access to this site when I started a few weeks ago. Got he carbs off, and started to take the runners off and snapped the first one off on the outside right side. I stopped. Finally got on here, I already had the JIS screw bits and then let the other bolts soak for a twice daily hit of my penetrant. Started again, 6 came off pretty easily and the final one on the outside of the other side snapped. OK, additional research. Get left twist bits and an Irwin easy out. As you can guess, easy out snapped. I stopped. Don't really give a damn how much this costs me to have done. What am I looking at to have this done approximately? Also, if you know of anyone in central Ohio who knows what they are doing, I'll gladly compensate them well for it:) Thanks everyone and glad winter coming up, I have 6 months to get these bolts out! Take care and thanks for any help!!

Any pics of the snapped (???runner???) bolts and easy out?

Let me figure out how to do that with the pics!

What's a runner? The rubber manifolds. Too bad a 1981 650 CSR head does not fit your 77.
I have one with 7,900 mils on it. I'm trying to sell the whole engine local first before I break it down.
I have the cheapest parts on ebay.

My guess is that he is talking about the screws that hold the carb holders, AKA intake manifolds, on the head. To the OP, what city in Ohio are you near?

Rick H.

YEs z1kzonly, those rubber intake connectors. I wish that fit as well!!

Exactly Rick H. I got one of the two out this morning. Going to work on the second, the one with the easy out tip broke off in it. Just taking it slow and it appears I can get the bits out just fine. Chasing the threads as we speak on the first outed bolt. I'm in Reynoldsburg, OH.

heat gun for removal, never sneeze (seize), for install, great stuff, open the container, and your wearing it,

Haha!!!! Broke the snapon rethreading tap in the hole I just finished up. Can't make this shit up. If anyone wants a 77 KZ650 for cheap, let me know!!

Well I don't want your bike Kozman011, but I think you are going about the job of tapping wrong. If you already know what I am about to say then forgive me and disregard all. I think at this point you may want to remove the head to do this job more easily. I have learned there is a certain feel that must be developed when tapping or clearing out tapped holes and you must have a clear view and access to the holes. I have also learned that tapping fluid is an absolute must and not all tapping fluids are alike or work very well. Any old oil isn't good enough and is the kiss of death for taps. Some machinists make up their own tapping fluid formula, but I use a product sold by Brownells called Do-Drill. It's really meant for drilling holes in metal but also works very good for tapping. Some tapping fluids actually increase the resistance required to turn a tap and I avoid using them like the plague . When using a tap smoothness is essential, jerkiness will cause breakage. If any stickiness or binding occurs with the tap you are in trouble and increase the chances of tap or easy out breakage. Unfortunately, as you have learned there is a limit that you can push a tap or easy out and going any further WILL result in a broken tool. When using a tap in hard material not only is lubrication essential, but you must back the tap up a lot to clear out broken pieces of material. I may only turn a tap an 1/8th of a turn and back it up and go back and do it over and over. With smaller taps you can actually see the tap start to flex a bit before it breaks, but with larger taps they just break when you exceed their limit. A good solid tap handle is essential to success, not a cresent wrench or end wrench. Make certain the tap or easy out is TIGHT in the tap handle! If the tap or easy out is loose it will break. There is also a cardinal rule that is many times forgotten, or neglected, and that is to keep the tap or easy straight to the hole. Any amount of sideward force greatly increases the chances of brakeage. When ever possible I only tap holes with the work piece mounted on my milling machine so I can keep things in line by using the spindle. Lastly, easy outs sometimes expand the broken bolt as you try to get them to "bite" into a broken screw or bolt making removal more difficult. And make for darn sure your tap is in perfect condition before starting work. If teeth are broken or missing throw the tap away immediately and get a new one. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. How much is your time and aggravation worth? For some work I do I use one tap for one hole. The material is that tough that I don't want to chance using a tap twice. I could do an entire school on broken bolt removal removal as I have learned the hard way how to do this stuff. It's not rocket science, but it isn't as easy as some would have you believe and breaking tool bits off in holes can be very frustrating. If all else fails you can have the broken piece electrically burned out as a last option. Good luck!
Rick H.

OK folks. Just wanted to update and close my b*tch session out. I got everything out using dremel grinding stones. Took some time, but got most of it out and then hit the holes with a 5.2mm drill bit and re-tapped at 6mm. All is good and I wanted to thank everyone for their assistance. Bet on one thing, it won't be my last request for help:) Have a great weekend everyone!!

Consider allen heads and use blue locktite not anti seize. O and good job on getting the pieces out things like that keep me up at night.