Keihin CV34 Repair Kits

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationDoes anyone have any experience with the repair kits below? They seem a bit too good to be true. I am building a second set of carbs to try and diagnose a problem I am having with my 750H and I need new seals, new idle screws and new drain screws. I would just get some standard kits as they would get here a lot quicker, but the drain screws will cost about $40-50 on top of the cost of the kits. These kits would sort everything out and I would have some spare jets and needles in case of emergency.

No experience with those kits but that is a heck of a good price!

If just the drain plugs work then your good. If the bowl gasket s and 1 or 2 other bits are ok then you are way ahead.

Strange though that they dont ship to Canada, Australia and a number of EU countries.

Cruizin Image do or did an 810 kit for the kz750/4s which had ok reviews.

As grumpy as I am about aftermarket carb kits I have to admit that those kits do provide a ton of pieces for the money. I'd minimize using the parts unless necessary though.

One aftermarket carb part that I've found to be pretty decent for those Keihin's is Kester float needles. They are the only aftermarket needles I've found where the spring is strong enough to hold the float up.

Thanks guys.

@JR: that was pretty much my thinking, the repair kits cost about the same as 4 drain plugs, everything after that is a bonus.

@Nessism: I hear you. I do have a set of Keyster float valves in my current carbs (OEM are $30-40 each!). I thought the one on #3 might be causing problems but switched #3 and #4 and the problem stayed with #3. I will only be using the bare minimum from the kit, but if it all looks OK I may swap everything out on my spare carbs just to see how they go.

Just ordered a set. Will put all the parts in my spare carbs and report back.

Did you polish the float seat? I use a worn out gray scotchbrite pad strip, then I cram it into the seat and spin it around using a small screwdriver until the brass seat is nice and shinny.

Nessism wrote: Did you polish the float seat? I use a worn out gray scotchbrite pad strip, then I cram it into the seat and spin it around using a small screwdriver until the brass seat is nice and shinny.

That was the next thing I was going to check. I didn't polish or even check them before I put them back on the bike. The float levels seem OK whenever I test them but the sporadic nature of the problem has me thinking it might be an intermittent problem with the valve or seat. When I have them out I'll also swap out the needle jet and main jet nozzle. After that I'm out of ideas.

I have installed one of these sets. No issues except for the pilot mixture screws, which have been problematic.

These pilot mix screws are just a little to big. The normal procedure is to wind them all the way in and then back them out, but they are such a tight fit that it's very hard to tell when you're at the bottom, so it's very, very easy to damage them. If your existing pilot mix screws are OK, stick with them.

I can probably find 4 decent mixture screws. Any recommendations for aftermarket ones? OEM don't seem to be available anywhere.

I've got a tap which helps clean up the threads. Can't remember the size but let me know if you need me to check.

Thanks Ed. Do you remember if it was a standard metric thread? If so I can just measure the OD of the fuel screw. It may also be a good idea to take a die to the screws it the kit if they are too tight.
The kit should be here next week, I'll post some pictures and feedback when it gets here and the again once I've rebuilt the spare carbs with it.

It's some super fine pitch thread. Either .5 or .6mm. Can't remember off hand.