KZ1100 Carb Removal

I have moved the springs back toward the airbox, loosened the carb holder clamps, disconnected the throttle cable, but I cannot seem to remove the carbs. The manual says to pull them back and lift up, but I can't clear the carb holders. Am I missing something?

You should be able to remove the boots between the airbox and the carbs. They might be stiff from age, but take your time and you'll get them out. Then you should have room to remove the carbs.

If they're too stiff and cracked, email Z1 and see if they can get you a new set. If you remove the carbs once or twice, you'll be glad you spent the money.

First remove the two bolts that hold the airbox in place (one bolt on each side of the battery box). Then you can pull the airbox back toward the rear of the bike. This only gives you about 1/2" additional clearance, but that is usually enough to allow you to remove the carbs without removing the boots from the airbox.

After sliding back the airbox as far as it can go, simply squeeze/bend the boots one at a time to pull them loose from the carbs (as Gargantu said, if they are too stiff to squeeze/bend then you will probably need to replace them). I usually push the airbox boots down below the carb inlets. Then just wiggle the carb assembly up and down to loosen and remove by pulling up and back.

Post edited by: NormZ, at: 2006/03/10 10:20

I have found that also by spraying WD40 in the boots after a little, I think WG posted this before, it makes life a lot easier, especially if you have to retake them off to adjust, etc. I have been doing this and life is grand now with the carb holders, use to hate them with a passion:laugh:

What does the WD40 do? I'd have thought it would make them more slippery and thus harder to manipulate.

It's a pretty rough job the first time you try it, especially if the air ducts have hardened. My BS34's weren't actually snapped into the manifolds but just barely setting in there, causing all kinds of air leaks. It made them a little easier to remove the first time, but when snapped in good, they are a bear to just get loose from the manifolds, not to mention if the air ducts are hard.

If the air ducts are hardened, you'll have to use every muscle in your face to get the carbs back far enough to remove them, but they will come loose. Remove them a second time and you'll gladly spend the $50 to replace the air ducts.

Thanks for the replys! Seems like I am not alone in this. I think I pulled a couple muscles in my back last night trying to pry them from the bike. At least I have a battle plan.....

The WD40 makes them easier to get in and out of the holders, you just wipe a little bit around them and they come out nicely, even after a few months, etc. It was just a technique to make life easier, ha, they don't slip out either, it just gets ride of pulling your back muscles.

My first time going at it on my 1980 550, I swear I was afraid I was going to bend the carb rails! I kept thinking I must be doing something wrong.

Here is a trick i use to soften up those harden air boots. I just heat them up with a heat gun for a minute or two and they are almost soft as new. To replace them i just heat them again and those boots pop right back in place. You have to work fast cause once they cool off they are just as hard as when you first started. If you don't have a heat gun i guess a very hot hair dryer will work just as well.

tw