TK22 Carb Choke

I've been reading about how the TK22 carbs on my '83 KZ550 are prone to losing the spring-loaded metal flaps on the choke plates. Mine are missing the flaps on carbs 2 and 3, and the flap on carb 1 is in the process of falling off. Some people have mentioned permanently closing the windows off as a means to fix this.

Now, I don't have the means to machine new flaps, so my only other option would be to close them off (using some pieces of metal and JB Weld, probably).

My question is whether or not anyone has done this? I know that it would require fiddling with the choke as the bike warms up to compensate. I just hate to permanently modify my carb plates (or whatever they're called) if it won't work very well.

You may have read one of my old posts. I took all the hardware off the choke plates and used an epoxy to close off the hole. Then i added another detent in the choke lever at the position where the plates are nearly closed. I have had no problems with this. It works great! It took a few times of starting it to see what position worked best but i would recommend this mod!

Thanks a lot, that's exactly what I wanted to hear!

harm wrote:

You may have read one of my old posts. I took all the hardware off the choke plates and used an epoxy to close off the hole. Then i added another detent in the choke lever at the position where the plates are nearly closed. I have had no problems with this. It works great! It took a few times of starting it to see what position worked best but i would recommend this mod!

Hey Harm, I think it may have been you I was thinking of in this thread:
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=3&id=272035

But I couldn't remember at the time. So I'm glad to hear the idea of blockling them off works. If I understand, you start with the choke closed and after the motor kicks over you flip to the small detent? Or do you just start with the small detent?

It would be great if you could post a photo or two the next time you have them apart.

loudhvx wrote

It would be great if you could post a photo or two the next time you have them apart.

I never did take any pics of that and i should have. Next time i have my carbs off i will take some.

If my bike has not run in a while or it is very cold out i will go to FULL choke otherwise i use the detent with good success! If i do use FULL choke It usually just pops and sputters a little then i drop to the detent and hit the starter again it fires up.

insignia100 there is also a fast idle you can adjust to help you out.

harm wrote:

loudhvx wrote

It would be great if you could post a photo or two the next time you have them apart.

I never did take any pics of that and i should have. Next time i have my carbs off i will take some.

If my bike has not run in a while or it is very cold out i will go to FULL choke otherwise i use the detent with good success! If i do use FULL choke It usually just pops and sputters a little then i drop to the detent and hit the starter again it fires up.

insignia100 there is also a fast idle you can adjust to help you out.

One of these days I want to put together a page on the TK22's. With your choke mod, and my fast-idle mod , the rough spot on those carbs should be covered.

eBay sells stainless steel choke flaps for the TK22 carburetor for about $30-$35 bucks. Good quality parts and easy to install.

I’d replace all of them even if they’re good. The factory ones tend to break off and go through the motor.

Rustybucket wrote: eBay sells stainless steel choke flaps for the TK22 carburetor for about $30-$35 bucks. Good quality parts and easy to install.

I’d replace all of them even if they’re good. The factory ones tend to break off and go through the motor.

Do you have a link? I can't find it.

I didn't think the flaps break off, I though the pivot pin walks out and then the flap gets free. Am I wrong?

I recently rebuilt a set and the pin was walking out on two of four choke slides. It was easy to push the pin back in and stake it in place firmly though. I sealed the pin hole with epoxy too, just to be safe.

Sometimes a hinge curl will break off. You can see it on one photo on my site.
Scroll down to the last side-by-side photo.
When the pin walks out, it places a lot more stress on the hinge curl which I think contributes to the hinge curl breaking off.

s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/TK22mainPage/TK2...chokePlateFlaps.html

I was offering stainless steel flaps which were spot welded to prevent the hinge curl from flexing and breaking. I donated the proceeds to Kzrider, but I am currently all sold out. There has not been a lot of demand so I didn't get a new batch laser cut.

Scroll down to the bottom of that page to see the new flaps. I might get a new batch over the winter if time allows.