Keihin shimming question

I'm almost embarrassed to ask this, BUT................
when shimming the needles in Keihin (CVK32s) carbs, do the needles go under the e-clip on the needle or on top just below the spring?
Please don't ask why I need to know this, I just do.:blush: :blush: :ohmy:
Jim

Post edited by: inline4, at: 2006/02/27 14:18

I suspect you would want to put the shims under the e-clip to raise the jet needles to keep that 750 from being so cold blooded? I have pretty much the same carbs on my Voyager and that bike is about as cold blooded as they come. If this is the case, you may want to find some bigger pilot jets; one size up likely... If you have done air box stuff, you are on your own hehe

Thanks WG!
Tell you what, I'll put up my Keihins up against your Keihins any day for the "iceburg award."
Seriously though, I've been fighting with the CVKs for over a year now trying to get them dialed in. It all started when I bought a TBR slip-on and removed the emissions-related stuff. The administrator of zr-7.com came up with some jet kits specifically for the ZR7, as well as instructions to remove EGR, etc.
I never could get rid of the off-idle hesitation, although it did improve somewhat with the addition of his kit.
So I bought an Ivan's jet kit and followed his instructions to the letter. The bike seemed to perform better, but the mileage suffered dramatically, VERY dramatically!
I had got to the point with all the carb removals and teardowns that I ruined one of the diaphrams. So instead of paying $150 for one, I bought a used bank of carbs from an ebay seller that was parting out a bike like mine. I even bought another airbox because mine had been "modded" a few times.:laugh:
Now my problem (besides poor mileage) is that yesterday after a short ride I noticed what appeared to be an oil leak around my valve cover gasket. My hands and sinuses were too cold to determine if it was oil or gas.
Come to find out, it was a little of both. I noticed that my oil level had risen quite a bit, telling me that now there is fuel in the crankcase. It seems I have a stuck needle valve on one of the carbs, so I'm off to check the float levels and remedy that problem. While I'm at it, I'm going to go through the carbs one more time to see if there is anything I overlooked the last time.
Thanks for the advice.
Jim

When you get those things off, measure the spacing if you can... I suspect your bike would be FAR happier with a set of Mikuni BS carbs. If the spacing is the same, you could use BS32/BS34 (either would work MUCH better than the CVK carbs) Mikunis from a Kaw... if your engine is a shade narrower, the GS850 carbs are a possibility. BS32s from an 850 are narrower by about 1/2" than the Kaw version as their cylinder heads have slanted runners (all slant towards middle) that make the spacing a bit more narrow. I have a set of these in my shop right now and just did another set for a customer. In any case, be careful when you sync those things... You really need a special tool that is a screwdriver inside a socket on a long extension and REALLY need to not put any downward pressure on the sync mechanism as they are SUPER touchy. The off idle problem is likely too lean a pilot circuit. You can turn the mixture screws out a bit? If they are towards the end of their ability to turn out... say 3 turns, go to larger pilot jets (up one size) from whatever it is now...

If I EVER get a few minutes, I am going to see about swapping out the cold blooded CVK32s on my Voyager. It takes so long for the bike to warm it is embarrassing (on a cold day). The only thing GOOD about them is that once warmed, they work OK and get good mileage.

Taking off the smog junk shouldn't be hard on a 750... a cannister actuated by vacuum and some reed valves, I suspect. Block off reed valves and cap ports and you should be good to go... it isn't the smog junk removal that is causing the problem off idle, it is likely the pilot jet. I have a LOT of Vulcan related CVK experience and that is almost always the case. Also make sure that the coasting enrichener and accelerator pump diaphragms are both in good health as that problem you are having is what they are SUPPOSED to cure.