73 Z1 mutt/mixed breed Build

I'm not a big picture taker/documentation sort on stuff, should be though. Just lazy perhaps but more concerned about the  fixin'n then stopping every few minutes to snap a photo, never be a Youtube sensation..thank goodness, ha. But just finished a late 1973 Z1, same issues. Check Your lower triple tree lock-to-lock welded in pin on that 73. Had to dislodge my existing one and have one machined and welded back-in. Otherwise you'll wreck that brand new tank when you turn your handlebars, headlight ears on the sanchions/fork tubes will smash it. 

Pin is straight and no evidence head collapse. I did notice that the 2 outer tubes, running under the tank and intersect at the rear of the tank, are not level with the seat part of the frame where I had my level sitting. The rider right is lower which matches the rider clockwise twist of the head. I can see using a cheater bar long enough and enough leverage to stick between the center and the right tube and pulling Rider counterclockwise. Is that kind of the idea? If so, would it be best to do it before the motor is installed or after?

Oh, that brings up another question I had, can the cylinders be installed after the crankcase is installed or do the cylinders need to be installed before the motor is installed in the frame? I don't know if the cylinders will clear the studs if the crankcase is in the frame.

Excellent to hear, lock pin is still intact. Sounds like previous owner maybe ran-amuck and somehow hit the wheel against a curb maybe?? You have to remember these are just mild steel tubed frames, minibike like. The engine cases stiffen them-up. You "can" try to assemble your cylinder over the pistons/rings in frame but i NEVER do it. I launch the completed crankcase on it's back and don't have to fight the weight of the cylinder when setting the rings into the liners. This way you'll be assured you're not forcing anything. 2 and 3 cylinders first, 1 and 4 to follow. 

Coyote wrote:

Pin is straight and no evidence head collapse. I did notice that the 2 outer tubes, running under the tank and intersect at the rear of the tank, are not level with the seat part of the frame where I had my level sitting. The rider right is lower which matches the rider clockwise twist of the head. I can see using a cheater bar long enough and enough leverage to stick between the center and the right tube and pulling Rider counterclockwise. Is that kind of the idea? If so, would it be best to do it before the motor is installed or after?

Any pulling on the frame should be done with the motor installed and ideally the swingarm (if not it may not fit afterwards  )

Thanks Wookie, and I also thought that installing the motor might get rid of the twist itself too
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Love your "glass half full" optimism 

Yes, you can install the barrels with the cases in the frame.  I always do it that way because it allows me to wrestle the cases into the frame by myself.  

Yep, that's why I was asking, although I will still have to have help. I'm still debating whether to install the Pistons and cylinders first then installing in frame then putting the head on, or just assembling the head too and then getting a couple of extra buddies to help get it in the frame.

Got the correct sprocket hub in today. Yeehaw One more box checked in a good way this time. Before and after picture light cleaning 
 

An alternative way to put the motor in the frame is to install the barrels and head on the bench.  Then lay the engine on its side and put the frame over it. 

If you are rebuilding the engine in the frame you can put the pistons on after the cases are installed.  You might want to leave the oil pan off so that you can recover any clips that escape while putting the pistons on the rods.  It is much easier to put the barrels over the pistons if you have Kawasaki's installation tool.