KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

I did not feel like wrestling with old tires today so started bolting parts on instead.





Got the inner fender, shocks, lift handles, and swing arm installed.



Also installed the points cover I polished last night along with the oil cooler fittings, and the GPZ starter motor.



I checked the spaced out stock 650 rear brake pedal, it just clears so I am going to trim about 1/4" from the inside edge of the foot platform.





I can still see the oil sight glass looking straight on.



I also got the center stand installed with my custom DIY limit bar.



Not a bad start to putting it back together.
 

All those little special mods make it even more interesting.

I spent some time yesterday and got one old tire removed, the front one. Today I was not in the mood to try and take the rear tire off so decided to bolt some more parts on.

I bolted on the oil cooler mount plate, but I had to open up the holes to get it to fit.





After that I bolted up the horn bracket assembly which was previously fitted on the 650, but it hit the back of the oil cooler bracket support. I bent the horn bracket and it cleared but in doing that I found it was going to hang to the rear too much and probably interfere with the cam cover (eye balled the placement)



I know there is no room to push it up under the neck gussets so I decided to mount it below the battery box under the air box just behind the engine.







The air box bottom sits higher than the Dyna 3 box mounted to the bottom of the battery box. I need to make some 2" long stand offs and mount them to the bottom of the battery box, then provide a couple of rails to be able to mount the horn bracket. I will just reuse the horn bracket and drill some extra mount holes in it.

The air box is a KZ750 unit for CV carbs, I am using the stock pollution fittings to route my crank case vent hose. I enlarged the vent hose to 1/2" ID and will have a open catch can mounted to the frame back bone. You can see I made a special fitting for the 1000 vent cover. I am also using a 3/8" vent on the cam cover that will tie into the catch can.



I also mounted the rear fender.


 

Continued trying to get the horn mounted today.

Started by fixing the wire harness to the horn relay which had extra wires on it to also attach the stock horn. Now that it is mounted in the rear I could get rid of those two wires.

I can also run the power wire thru a fuse in the blade fuse box which I omitted when I had it mounted on the 650. Since the horn is closer to the fuse box I shortened the power wire.

I modified the battery box to mount four M5 flat head bolts flush.





I had to put the holes in with a hand drill so got them as close as I could to what I need. I had to use a long jobbers drill to counter sink the holes. The 3/8" stand off rods will have the other part of the counter sink in them on the mounting side.

Also started in on making a new simpler mount bracket. I hack saw cut and hand filed some 1/16" 6061 sheet, takes a bit of time to get square edges by hand.



Will drill the holes tomorrow and get it assembled.

I want to have the wheels on and most of the assembly done before I assemble the top end of the engine.



 

More parts bolted on today, gauges assembled on the top clamp.



Oil cooler mounted on frame plate.



Pulled out the wire harness and will get that strapped on tomorrow.



Spent some time on the lathe and drill press fabricating the horn mount bracket till it was complete.





Forgot the air box was sitting just above the new bracket so had to move the relay.



Will be able to plug it in and finish any outstanding wiring tomorrow.
 

I did some more assembly today, got the forks and front fender installed along with the headlamp shell.





I also cut the inside edge of the rear brake pedal then got it bolted down. When I mocked it up last time I did not have the spring wound properly so it was not sitting at the correct height.



It misses the cover and is below the sight glass. I can get my foot on it, but I think I am going to be constantly rubbing on the cover with my boot.



I think I might end up spacing it out even more, but that requires cutting off the mount stud then drilling the spline to take a bolt. It looks like I could space it out another 1/2" or more. The more I look at it the more I think it needs fixing.

Late in the day I got the harness set under the frame, and the electrical base panel bolted to the battery bracket. Will finish up on the harness tomorrow and see if I can get the headlamp installed.

I took the donor bike apart 4 years ago so its been a slow go putting it back together again. I had to go back and look at some pictures and reference my Parts Catalog to be sure I was assembling a couple of parts the correct way.

 

I got a bit done today even though I had to stop to do some yard work. My main priority was getting the wiring harness installed and fixing a few wires. Had to attach the vent catch can first as it is up above the main harness.



ABS pipe catch can with two fittings, one from the top case and one from the cam cover.

Needed to mock up the cam cover to see if the vent fitting would foul and it did. It is directly under the center of a horizontal frame tube. Had to lower the bulkhead fitting then run a 90 hose end on it.





Vent hose is high temperature brewers silicone tubing.



I bolted up the Dyna plate so I could hook the wires up to the box and harness.



Here the wiring is laid out to get a feeling of what goes where. I needed to move the ratchet straps after this picture because of how the harness attaches to the frame.



Got the wiring sorted out and routed in the correct direction, zip tied as neat as I could along the way.





Once the wiring was secure I installed the air box to make sure it fit correctly. Final placement will be determined by where the carbs fit both up/down and fore/aft. You can now see how the venting works thru the air box.





I also looked at spacing the rear brake pedal out 1/2". I took some measurements but need to modify the actuator spindle and make some new spacers.



1/2" extra puts me in the middle of the spindle but it should still be pretty stiff. I also need to make a new arm stop out of some rectangular bar as the one on there does not hit anymore.





No idea how I am going to drill and tap the spindle end, not much to hold onto!

Tomorrow I will work on getting the headlamp installed.

 

A very impressive build.   Will the catch can drain back into the motor? Any pcv valve in the venting?

Vinsky wrote:

A very impressive build.   Will the catch can drain back into the motor? Any pcv valve in the venting?




 

The catch can will drain back to the engine. It is opened to atmosphere at the top end of the tube with a large hole, the tube end is sealed with a cap. There is no PCV valve in the venting.

I think the volume of the can is about 300 ML, hopefully it is big enough. I based the can size and tubing ID on a 1200cc drag engine a friend of mine has. I designed it so it does not need emptying or removal once installed.
 

I was hoping to get some more work done on this today but its not going to happen.

Some friends convinced me to join them on a bicycle ride because it was a excellent day. They said it was only going to be about a 30KM ride, but ended up being closer to 50KM! The only issue was that I have not been on a ride over 10KM in the last couple of years. Got back just after lunch and I am done for the day, not wrecked but I will definitely feel it tomorrow. It was a road ride out in the country but the hills killed me, my average speed was 26KPH but I was well behind at the finish. I turn 63 this year and those guys are all younger than me, some as much as 10 years so that makes me feel a bit better.

Will see just how bad I am tomorrow for continuing out in the garage.

I did not get too much done today but I did get started on the mods for the brake pedal spacing by removing the stud on the spindle and tapping the end for a M8.





I have over two times thread engagement, and its steel on steel so I think that will be plenty strong. I got some material pulled out to make two new spacers and the new rectangular pedal stop. Hoping to get those other parts done and mounted tomorrow.
 

I had some time today so spent a little while on the lathe making some new spacers for the brake pedal, then I assembled it to check the fit.



That extra 1/2" was all it needed, its going to sit lower than before.





Better clearance for "boot rub", but there still might be a little. Now I have to spend some time on the mill to make a hard stop for the pedal top.



Found a piece of scrap 6061 that should do the trick. I need to replicate the shape of the tab and recess it about .030" so it does not rotate.

Hopefully I will get on that tomorrow.