KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

Here is the oil cooler going on this project, its a custom built -8AN fitting hi flow unit by buddy brazed together.



Its the same one he uses on his KZ900 mounted like this.



The mount bracket and rubber isolater ends are stock Polaris parts from a Victory Vegas big twin I ordered from my local dealer.

I measured the parts and the 650 frame so I could figure out how to mount it by creating a CAD model.





I ordered up some 6160 material to fabricate the mount plates to attach to the 650 frame.

I am using black anodized push connect fittings and quality hose.



I will need to run the horn behind the gusset plate under the main frame tube, it is a louder Fiamm electric horn.



The mount fabricating for the oil cooler still needs to be completed but I have all the parts to get it done on hand. 

 

The frame has been painted and been hanging up since October of last year. It already had a tapered bearing headset installed.



The cylinder head is ready to go except the cam pathways need to be ground. Its has been decked slightly.



The 1015 barrel has been fitted with bigger liners which have been bored and honed to size. Its has been decked slightly.



 

For the electrical system I deepened the stock battery box to be able to run a bigger battery (same size as a KZ1000)





I also installed a SH775 regulator from a 2013 Polaris RZR 800. It just barely fits under the side cover.



I also run a upgraded blade fuse box and oversize battery cables.



This build is not going to be very glamorous, its mostly DIY so spray bomb paint job (already done) and no pricey or slick parts.

 

 

I finished fabricating this clutch pusher today, its a copy of a APE unit. It cost me about $4 to make.







The last time I had a bought one in my hands I measured it and made a CAD model so I could make a drawing.

The bearing I found at a place I use to work, been sitting on it for over 20 years - Just happened to be the correct size

I cut the head off a socket head cap screw for the shaft then I turned it down. I heat treated the end where the ball sits before I pressed it together.

I could not find my letter stamps today but will stamp my name on it when I come across them.

 

I have to start working on getting the cases cleaned up, black paint and corrosion removed. Once that is done then I can chase all the threaded holes.

I have one weld repair to fix on the upper case. JB Weld was not going to cut it!





I need to spot face that surface and chase the thread. Get the shape back on the outside with a Dremel tool.

I think I will need to wash and scrape the dirt off before trying to remove the black paint.
 

How the hell can someone crack and break off the oil pressure switch port mount in this position with a sledge hammer and chisel?

Scirocco wrote:

How the hell can someone crack and break off the oil pressure switch port mount in this position with a sledge hammer and chisel?







 

It was not anything like that, it was in one piece when I got it.
Just a big crack migrating from the outside of the lug from up to the top and across the gasket surface.
I believe it was from corrosion and over tightening of the fastener. When I probed the crack it chipped off in one piece (very weak)

If you look closely at the picture you can see a tiny crack on the other side, not as big or worth repairing (just use the correct bolt torque!!)

Its hard to see in this picture, you can make out the line across the gasket surface.



You can see there is a lot of corrosion on the upper case where the engine/bike was stored out in the rain/snow.

When I went to take the clutch springs out this is what I found :



 

Wow, I've never seen clutch springs in so many pieces before!
I would pull off the oil pan and clean it out just to be safe.

That was the only damage I found in the engine. The oil pan was full of sludge but no other debris. The oil pump is sound as well.

I am not sure why those springs were so bad.

The VM33 carbs are assembled and pre jetted for the engine combination.



The rubber ducts for the 750 CV air box fit the carb mouths just right.

Had some time today so I ground this weld flat.







It took a while but I got it pretty flat. Thread is now 100% good.
Might just slick the bottom of the fitting block with 3Bond or RTV plus the stock O ring just to make sure its leak proof.
 

Was working on the cam sprockets this morning. Want to slot them for adjustment so had to take off the plastic bits.



Got a propane torch out and heated up the plastic enough to pry it off.



Measured some APE units to know how much to lengthen slots.Was thinking on using my 4" rotary table to cut the slots but it does not have a chuck on it yet. Will need to make a plug to center it and a base to clamp the sprockets to the small table.