A Tale of Two Zeds

Did the owner of the shop repair the head, or did you have someone else do it?  What was the owner's response to the issue?

A friend who is a very good welder/fabricator repaired the fins on the head, took him a whole morning, but he only charged me 'mates rates'. The owner did not know about the problem until I called him, he immediately paid for the work. Seems the shop has recently lost two of its long term employees to retirement. The shop now has four apprentices, one of whom caused the problem, along with other errors and mistakes.. I was told he was sacked last week.

Sometimes education & tuition is VERY expensive.

Drilled the new Renthal bars to take the wiring from the M-Switches, fitted the bars to the bike, along with the HEL master cylinders and grips. Next task is to make a bracket to mount the speedo/tacho unit, and once that's done, I can finally make a start on building the wiring harness for the bike, despite not having an engine yet....

Glad to hear the shop owner stepped up to the plate and did the right thing.

The headlamp mount 'ears' have been machined to make them less ugly, while a steel bracket has been made to fit the speedo/tacho gauge.  These have been painted black, and now just need to complete the alloy part of the mount and that the front end fabrication done. For now at least.

Having an interesting time trying to build the wiring harness for the MK2 without an engine. Can't do everything, but I can do approx 90%. The keyless ignition system is on back order, but the GPS speedo sensor should be here in a few days.

Using an M-Unit simplifies things a lot.. no need for a fuse box, alarm system, relays, etc. Though the wires from the M-switches are tiny, and tricky to work with.




Have to work on my drive now, between the rain showers, as no room left in my garage


 

So if you've done this already, disregard but I HIGHLY recommend crimping on some ferrules onto the wires before inserting them into the M-unit.  It results in a much more secure fit.  With those ferrules, proper ferrule crimpers are a must.

wrote:

So if you've done this already, disregard but I HIGHLY recommend crimping on some ferrules onto the wires before inserting them into the M-unit.  It results in a much more secure fit.  With those ferrules, proper ferrule crimpers are a must.

You could as an alternative, twist the end of the wire and fold it over then solder to form a solid end

One problem with the M-Unit is that using my preferred 14 amp / 1mm2 wiring means that only two or at most three wires can fit in the output ports, adding ferrules doesn't help. Sometimes more are needed, for example the 12V ignition port needs to power more than that.. ignition, coils, gauges, speedo sensor, etc.  There are solutions, such as using a busbar, but I wish the ports were a little larger. 

wrote:

One problem with the M-Unit is that using my preferred 14 amp / 1mm2 wiring means that only two or at most three wires can fit in the output ports, adding ferrules doesn't help. Sometimes more are needed, for example the 12V ignition port needs to power more than that.. ignition, coils, gauges, speedo sensor, etc.  There are solutions, such as using a busbar, but I wish the ports were a little larger. 
 

I only ever had one power/signal wire at each M-unit port.  I would split the wires further down the loom, as close to the destination as possible.  This helped minimize excess wiring

Completed the speedo/tacho mount, then fitted R&G bar ends to the Renthal bars, after buying different bar ends which didn't fit, as the Renthal bars have thicker walls than a standard steel bar. Next a pair of HEL brake lines where fitted, two lines rather than the OE three, so called race format.



Dropped the idea of using a GPS speed senser, was it wasn't so easy to fit with the Daytona speedo.. but will use the GPS option on another project. However, the magnetic senser wouldn't fit between the fork leg and front disc, as there isn't enough room. So had to make a mount to fit it next to the rear disc.  The senser was intended to be mounted to the fork leg with Zip ties. Had to file a grove in the new mount to stop it from swivelling on its one 3mm mounting screw. Once painted black should be pretty much invisible.