'79 KZ1000 MKII - Restomod after 32 years of shed time

Look on ebay USA for the rear guard, the US models had the smaller guard which looks a lot better, should be able to get one for 50-60 USD plus shipping.. I'm not being negative to modifications, just saying that its a rare bike here in Aus and worth more in original condition, a real clean one could go for 10 grand here, maybe more to a collector. If it were me I would get the font guard rechromed, chrome paint looks like crap, try fine steel wool on the pedal arm and shifter.. Here's one option for a new rear guard, I have an order coming from webike at the moment...
japan.webike.net/products/20878369.html

Awesome, thanks!

Regarding your chromed parts that need attention, clean them up as best as you can and see how they look. The front fender is always an eye-catcher for sure and you want it to look its best. If cleaning doesn't work for you it could possibly be re-chromed, or you could watch for a nice used one to show up on the typical websites. You might even luck out and someone on the forum might have a decent used one to sell you. Same for the other parts you mentioned. As 750R1 said, chrome paint always looks like garbage and should be avoided at all costs. I for one am happy you are going to leave it stock. If you decide to chase a different dog later on you can just sell this one and buy something else. It should look pretty sharp all cleaned up.
Rick H.

I'll bite fish. Think about it though...
1). Do nothing that can't be undone.
2). Save all the OE parts
3). PERIOD CORRECT upgrades
RSU forks
Keihin CR Specials
Braced swingarm
FOX shocks
Morris/Dymag wheels

See where we're going?

slayer61 wrote: I'll bite fish. Think about it though...
1). Do nothing that can't be undone.
2). Save all the OE parts
3). PERIOD CORRECT upgrades
RSU forks
Keihin CR Specials
Braced swingarm
FOX shocks
Morris/Dymag wheels

See where we're going?

Yes , you can bolt all those parts on, but if you want to do it properly there's a lot of research to be done, triple clamp offset for trail, changes to wheelbase, fork length for ride height and its effect on both rake and trail and so on. Doing these conversions properly takes a fairly wide knowledge base about suspension geometry, that is of course if you want the changes to work properly... {seen the price of Dymag and Morris wheels.!!!} I see where you went, just filling in the gaps....