'78 KZ1000 Ugly Duckling

Thanks so much—I'm a little conflicted about how they came out. I made the templates based on the back sides of the discs, so they could sit flat on the drill press, and didn't take the shoulder on the front side into account. I might not have designed them quite like I did if I'd been taking all 3 dimensions into account, but I'm hopeful that they'll look good when they're mounted.

I've read somewhere that it's best not to chamfer holes in the discs, but I'm sure the exact opposite viewpoint is represented somewhere, so let slip the dogs of war on that one. It might fill the time while I wait for the frame bracing kit from Half Evil Customs.

I did the lightest of chamfers on my disc holes just to clean up the edges of the holes, when I ran my hand over the holes i could feel a very small raised lip..
I made these discs and used Z1300 centres...

 

Hi Buzz, factory drilled disc normally have a slight chamfer (stops any high spots tearing into the pads) love the direction you are going in. Having a unique ride doesn't have to involve an astnomical budget and the entire contents of "rape your wallet racing" catalogue of exotic components. A little "outside the box" thinking and ingenuity gets the job done.

R1, Those look fantastic. Sounds like maybe a super-light chamfer—perhaps more of a hone or deburring—is in order.

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R1, Those look fantastic. Sounds like maybe a super-light chamfer—perhaps more of a hone or deburring—is in order.

Thanks Buzz. The big discs started out as 320mm blanks with a 50mm hole in the centre, lots of work and lots of drilling !  I barely touched each hole when chamfering , just enough to touch the edge of each hole. 90 holes per disc..

I made this fiberglass seat pan with a recessed tray for electrics:

 

The 4 holes at the back are for Dzus fittings to attach to this cowl I made based on a sheet metal seat I made:

 

...and the 4 holes up front are for the 4 bolts I built into this third piece:

 

I'll weld a couple of pieces of flat stock between the frame rails that those bolts can attach to. I'm going to wait until I get the frame bracing kit from Half Evil Customs to do that—that way I'm doing all my grinding, welding, and appliance epoxy-ing at the same time.

If anybody sees clear flaws in this seat design, I'd love the input, since I'm in unfamiliar territory.

Looking good Buz, given that the elec tray is lower than the frame tubes is there enough clearance at full suspension travel?

I'm pretty sure it's higher than the inner fender was. Maybe I should run a rachet strap around there and measure it under a load...

wrote:

I'm pretty sure it's higher than the inner fender was. Maybe I should run a rachet strap around there and measure it under a load...

That tail looks really nice.  I like it.

As for testing suspension travel, it might be easier to remove the springs on your shocks.  It looks like the top retaining ring slides off if you were to compress the springs.

Otherwise I picture you being ejected through the roof of your shop when the ratchet strap comes loose... 

Given that the shocks are pretty much upright and mounted close to the axle line, if you measure the shock center rod from bump stop to the top of the shock body (total travel) then add that measurement to the top of the tyre that should give you a pretty good idea of the clearance you have 

Will the electrics in the tail need air circulation for cooling? A couple of small vents and a good computer cooling fan might do the trick.

I hadn't considered that, and I'm not sure which components will be in there, so I don't know if I'd need it. I wonder if that would require a little tunnel forward and a filter to avoid pulling crap into the fan...