1976 Kz 900 A4

wrote:

We commonly touched up burrs on gears with an oilstone at the factory,  remarkable how much noise a small burr on the oilpump gear contacting the primary gear can make!  If the teeth are pitted the surface heat treatment is probably gone,  however I don't think that just a few teeth would be a cause of concern?  I don't understand the comments about just a little load on the gear, it is the PRIMARY gear along with being the oilpump gear.

Mike

For clarity I was referencing the stress applied in comparison to the gears I have used this method on previously, I am sure you will agree there is significantly more torque load on car transmission components   I was also under the impression (happy to be corrected) that the hardening on drive gears was between 1mm & 10mm deep dependent on the size and purpose of the gear. Are you saying they are "case hardened" (always looking to learn)

Case hardening is rarely thicker than .010" - .030".  If an application requires hardness deeper than that the entire part would get hardened, and would never be done to a gear.  Just my experience from a career in the metal fabrication industry.

wrote:

Case hardening is rarely thicker than .010" - .030".  If an application requires hardness deeper than that the entire part would get hardened, and would never be done to a gear.  Just my experience from a career in the metal fabrication industry.

So 0.25 - 0.75mm - As I said "happy to stand corrected", my career has centred around fixing and fitting parts, not making them   In your opinion on that basis would you agree the gear in question is still useable?

"For clarity I was referencing the stress applied in comparison to the gears I have used this method on previously, I am sure you will agree there is significantly more torque load on car transmission components"

Agreed!  I personally would polish the fugley teeth and use the crankshaft, there are other teeth to help carry the load, so to speak.   As you said finding a perfect 40+ YO crankshaft is very unlikely, although there has to be some NOS pieces hiding somewhere. How much do you suppose KHI would charge for a reproduction crankshaft seeing that the cylinder heads are 2K+?  

Mike

 

Not sure if this is an option as it may get pretty expensive unless you know a guy... I have a disassembled crank and all the parts are good with the exception of the taper for the rotor (bent in a crash). I could send some parts over for the cost of shipping - you'd need to find someone to disassemble and reassemble that end of the crank and then get it balanced.

 

Been away with my grandson for a travel baseball tournament. I’ll get caught up 

wrote:

Not sure if this is an option as it may get pretty expensive unless you know a guy... I have a disassembled crank and all the parts are good with the exception of the taper for the rotor (bent in a crash). I could send some parts over for the cost of shipping - you'd need to find someone to disassemble and reassemble that end of the crank and then get it balanced.

 

Calum, thank you, very generous offer. If I do need anything I’ll reach out. The plan is to take both crankshafts to Pearson Racing, and have him assemble one good crankshaft out of the two. I’ll have it indexed and welded. Pearson is about a 6 hour round trip for me. 

Sounds like a plan. Let me know if any of the parts are less than ideal on both cranks. If my spares are good I can ship them directly to Pearson Racing. Shipping isn't too bad unless you need the whole crank

wrote:

The plan is to take both crankshafts to Pearson Racing, and have him assemble one good crankshaft out of the two. I’ll have it indexed and welded. Pearson is about a 6 hour round trip for me. 

This is the right approach, IMHO.  Yes, it will cost some $$$$s but you'll be able to sleep better at night knowing, with certainty, that you'll be bolting in a good crank.   The foundation of a strong running motor.

Mike

Wow it’s been a minute on an update. 

Question how is Elliot tape properly used to re-wrap an OEM harness. 

  Behind the scenes I’ve been working on parts selection and detail work on small parts. Till I’m 100% on the crankshaft, I’m trying my hand at harness restoration. My test piece is a ‘77 1000 A1 main section in fair condition. My A4 harness is better so I figured if I can revive this one my original harness should be easier. I cut back the tape and sheathing back far enough to expose the terminals and a couple inches of wire. Opened up any rubbed spots for inspection and left the rest intact till I can get it mounted on a section of board and lay it in its natural relaxed position. Not concerned if I damaged the rest of the tape I soaked the entire harness in purple power. Lifting sections out to scrub. I pulled back all of the connector covers and scrubbed them also. Rinsing the harness off I still didn’t think the color had been restored. About a mont ago I accidentally dropped a rear tail light ground cable into metal rescue. A few hours later when I pulled the part out I noticed how bright and clean the ground lead looked. Again I’m not too concerned with the harness surviving I thought I’d drop it into metal rescue and see if it would brighten the colors and the brass connectors. It worked pretty well. I made all of the repairs necessary ordered some sections of gloss black sheathing from vintage connections along with some other connectors in the off-white almost yellow color that perfectly match the OEM. I also picked up some Elliot tape. My question is after this long description of work, how is the Elliott tape used. I had assumed it was not adhesive backed but in reality it is. The OEM tape that I cut off of the harness had no adhesive on it, or after forty years it’s dried up. 


  

 

 

 

I don't know about the "proper" method but the way that I have always taped looms is to initially go along the loom at approx 12 inch intervals and put a single wrap of tape to hold everything in the desired position. I then hold one end of the loom in a vice so I can keep a little tension on and keep it straight. I start with a full turn square to the loom then move down at approx 45 degrees with approx 25% overlap and a little tension on the tape when wrapping, use a "figure 8" around branches and then continue along. Personally I like to tape the branches first before the main loom which gives a nicer finished article and eliminates the risk of the tape starting to shrink back at the intersections. Again finish with a full turn square to the loom. Keeping a little tension on everything during the process will ensure a nice overall finish.

Great tips guys
DD