KZ750H Restoration

So, as I am waiting to hear back from a few people about exhausts, I am spending some time on the other MOT problem: side stand switch or side stand craziness ala Scirocco

A neighbour said he just puts an extra spring on for testing, so the stand goes up automatically when you take the wait off it. I did think about this but I don't like giving the cops any ammunition, especially with how things seem to be going over here.
I have - almost definitely - decided to add a switch. I'm still not sure how to mount it but may buy an old KZ1000 version off ebay later and then just see what I can come up with when I have all the parts. The wiring should be OK, but I will be cutting power to the ignition and not to the coils, then I can just tap in to the wire coming off the 20A fuse and don't have to open up the harness (the coils split straight off the kill switch wire under the tank). This will mean that everything will die when the stand is down and the bike isn't in neutral, but it's the best I can do without redoing part of the harness.
Here is my wiring diagram and the two relays I still have lying around. I'll use the 24V 40A one to be on the safe side. I'm not sure at the switch voltage for the relay and if I need the resistor or not. I was going to knock it down to about 3-4V but I haven't measured the internal resistance of the relay yet so I don't have any numbers.
What should I be using for the resistors and the diodes? Can I just use normal stuff from an electronics kit? Also wondering how hot they will get and whether I can just wrap them with the rest of the wiring?

I left the neutral switch wire off the diagram. It branches off between the switch and the diode and goes up to the neutral light.

I use a Hella 12 Volt relay with fuse holder (10 A ) for my wired Geoge coil mod. The relay can handle up to 25 A but 10 A is okay for the ignition ciruit. You don´t need any resistor and no 24 Volt relay. The difficult part is to get the switch attached to the frame and the side stand.

Thanks. I figure I don't need a fuse as the wire will be going straight from the 20A fuse to the relay - also the reason I went with at least 20A (it's not just the ignition circuit, but the lights as well).
I went with 24V as the voltage will be around 14-15V and I didn't want the relay to fail. Would a 12V relay not fail eventually?

And you're right. It is going to be a right PITA to get the switch attached, still not really sure how I'm going to do that.

I have never had any experience with such an override switch. Maybe a motorcycle with a factory option could be adapted.

Scirocco you find the coolest stuff!

I went with 24V as the voltage will be around 14-15V and I didn't want the relay to fail. Would a 12V relay not fail eventually?

A little voltage drop on a 12 Volt System with an 24 Volt divice, (weak or low battery), can make you a bad day.
I run the 12 Volt Hella relay for 2 years now with no probs and i can hear the clicking noise of the relay evertime the kill switch is turn to the on position to verify the funktion.

Yeah, brain fart. Not doing well today :blink:
I was thinking max voltage and not switch voltage. Of course, max voltage doesn't make any sense at all on the through-circuit :blush:
Will get a 4-pin Hella 12V - made in Germany and all

I can see why this might not be the best idea, but wanted to throw it out there. Can you modify the stand to hold the switch? The contact point (for switch engagement) would then be on the unmodified frame. If you buy another kick stand you can always revert it back to original.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationJust a suggestion

M_a_t_t wrote: I can see why this might not be the best idea, but wanted to throw it out there. Can you modify the stand to hold the switch? The contact point (for switch engagement) would then be on the unmodified frame. If you buy another kick stand you can always revert it back to original.

I have been thinking about this as well. I thought I might be able to mount a small magnetic switch that is closed when the stand is down (so that it will definitely stay in a stable state when riding on bumpy roads. Would need to adjust the wiring accordingly.

Mikaw wrote: Just a suggestion

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Had a look at some of these but there's no way to mount them (the stand mount is part of the frame on the 750H). Had a look at some Honda switches as well but they wouldn't sit on end of the stand properly.

calum wrote: (so that it will definitely stay in a stable state when riding on bumpy roads.

Great observation. Would not be a good thing to have the bike shut down if you hit a bump!

So just a quick update on the exhaust drama.

I bit the bullet and ordered an Eagle Classic on Thursday. Basically a Vance & Hines with reduced noise so it can be pre-approved here in Germany. Means that I can slap it on and no-one needs to look at it, the E-marking on it removes the need for any testing or paperwork. It was a few hundred more than I wanted to spend, but they are supposed to be pretty good and I need to get this thing on the road (plus, no tests!). It should be here in a couple of weeks (test is booked for the 14th so should be OK).
Here's some pictures of the Eagle Classic that Scirocco posted: kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/613489-del...n-1-for-750-4#829054

After all that I found a Campbells replica 650B system in pretty good nick today. It cost €250 and if it's as good as it looks in the pictures it will be fine for a while. I snapped it up before somebody else did and it should be here this coming week.

My current plan is to go to the MOT with the 650B system on and see if they'll just approve it as is without a proper sound test. If not I can still get all the paperwork to get the bike registered and can put the Eagle on to be 100% legal. Then I guess there'll be another for sale ad up for the 650B system