decided to keep the 95 and see what I can do.

Well after trying to sell it and being unsuccessful I've decided to keep the 95 cafe. Going to order a starter rebuild kit and rebuild kits for the carbs Friday. Old man rock had come over to help me with it but we couldn't get it to fire and then the starter went out so we gave up.There's something about this bike that I really just don't want to let it go. So any and all input is greatly appreciated!

Do NOT waste money on "carb kits" until you read this... zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

It's written about the Suzuki version CV Mikuni's, but they are very similar to yours.

Replace all the various O-rings, the float bowl gaskets if they are in poor condition, and maybe the float needles if the springs don't hold up the weight of the float on their own. Otherwise, reuse all the various jets and hard parts.

Some people don't ungang the carbs but in my experience this is a big mistake. The fuel transfer tube O-rings are typically the ones in the worst condition, and you can't replace those if the carbs are ganged together.

In very severe situations you may need new carb parts, but in the vast majority of carbs (I've bought a LOT of bikes and got them back on the road) I have put in new bowl gaskets only. Pull them apart, clean everything, basically how the link posted above details and you should be good.

Keep in mind it may still not be a carb issue, but it is always a good idea to do so once in a while anyway.

Edit: I know you said PO put in a dyna, it is possible that the magnetic trigger is installed wrong, I'm not certain if you have a mechanical advance, but I bought a mkii that wouldn't run due to the magnet being flipped

It's possible.
Steve

We checked the magnet and it's correct. Problem with the carbs is the jets are striped so cant remove them to clean properly. The mixture screws are in pretty bad shape also. #3 leaks from the bowl. Diaphrams looked good. The whole time we were working on the bike (about 8 hours)we never really smelled gas and we should of.she wouldn't even try to fire up on starting fluid. Read the past postings and the PO had all these same issues and decided to sell it. I'm wondering if something is going on with the cams? Engine turns over pretty easy with a wrench on the big nut by the ignition.

Sound's to me step back and start for scratch check cam timing and clearance,
ign. setup is right and timed then think about carb's.
If it's got spark and so so compression and it doesn't hit when sprayed it ain;t pumping air.

And so it begins. Pulling valve cover off to see what's going on. Pulling starter out, thinking about ordering a rebuild kit or calling local starter shop Monday to get a price for a rebuild. Don't know which would be easier and cost effective.pulling carbs and try to get striped jets out. Wondering if I can use a wiring harness and controls from a non police kz and eliminate things I don't have or need(switches for sirens, headlight switch ect ect)

Progress so far. Starter removed. The post on it is very lose and spinning. There's a blue wire with a red stripe that wasn't hooked up to anything (pic). Removed the valve cover and am inspecting the cam chain and cam shafts. I pulled the cap and spring for the cam chain tensioner and there wasn't much tension on it.

With the tensioner spring and cap installed there's is quite a bit of slack in my cam chain, more then I think there should be anyways, any thoughts?

Is that a new cam chain? If not have you used the service limits in your FSM to verify its within limits?

I think it's original. What are you referring to fsm?. I did find that the exhaust can and intake cam were off 1 pin (43 instead of 44) so I corrected that. What I just now noticed is according to the clymer.when you set the cam alignment,you get 1 and 4 to tdc.which I've done, the "in"mark on the intake cam should be "a little above the rear surface of the cylinder head" but at top dead center I'm a little below. Thinking I'm off a few teeth on the crank?

That blue and red wire should go to the oil light switch.