'82 GPz-750

Thanks for the BS rebuild referance guys. Saved. Good luck on the build!

I finally had the chance to tear into the bike today. The carbs were easy enough to get off the bike and are now all apart except for the pilot jets, which all seem to be sorta stuck. These things were pretty gunked up with old fuel. I found a couple odd things as well. One of the top caps was missing a screw and the remaining three were all pretty much just finger tight. Also, one of the fuel T's (I think it was the one between carbs 1 & 2) was plugged with what seemed to be the tip of a chop stick. The main jets all had "130" stamped on them, so this confirms the bike was re-jetted because the service manual calls for a 110 main jet.

For now, they will spend the night in the garage with WD-40 soaking in the pilot jet holes, which will, hopefully, loosen them up.

I also took a closer look at the paint and have decided it will need a re-spray, if I'm going to make it pretty. Now the decision to make will be to stick with the OEM paint scheme or go with a something different.

If the WD doesnt do it there are some much better choicesfor penetrating oils.Krohls,PB Blaster, ATF/Acetone mix. Take your time! Good luck.
Wayne

WD40 is really poor at everything except removing gummy labels from other products. For penetrating oil use Kroil or other products as mentioned by kzz1king. Ed

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'll pick up some better penetrating oil this week and see if it helps.

I'm setting a new record pace, for me. Haha. I've had the GPz a little over a year, and I'm already making progress on it. The carbs are completely clean with a new coat of paint on them. All that I have left to do is check the float height on them. The brake master cylinders both need to be rebuilt, and I have the rebuild kits in hand, ready to go. I have PB Blaster soaking on the cover screws for the master cylinder in the hopes that I won't have to strip them and use an EZ-out to get them out. The pod filters have all been cleaned, and are awaiting new oil. Other items left before I have a running bike are an oil/filter change, new spark plugs, a good chain cleaning/lubing, and some fresh fuel. Oh, and I'll have to synchronize the carbs, which means picking up a carb synchronizer.

I need a little help from you GPz gurus, though. From looking at the shop manual, US versions have a hose connected to all 4 carb vacuum points, and non-US versions have #s 1, 3, 4 capped, with only #2 connected to a hose. Though I'm in the US, this bike had the 3 capped vac points, but since it's been over a year since I took the carbs off, I wanted to confirm where it is I'm supposed to connect the #2 vac port to. My best guess is that it goes to the fuel petcock. Is that correct? I don't see any other loose vac lines laying around, so I'm thinking that has to be it.

Now, the bigger picture. The paint is rough, and the tail section needs a couple plastic repairs. I was planning on going with the original paint scheme with a very close match on the Firecracker Red and OEM stripes. The problem is, I'm missing several expensive parts to get it back to stock, completely. The tank "Kawasaki" emblems mounting points have been covered and painted over, the tail section has had turn signals bolted onto it, the back half of the rear fender is missing (along with the original turn signals), and the grab bar is missing. I definitely don't want to spend the money to replace cosmetic items to get it back to stock. So, that leaves me thinking I might as well switch it up completely. I'll keep the "GPz750" badges on the side covers because I already have them, and I want to pay homage to what this bike once was. I did some searching around on what other guys have done. It seams most people stick with stock. I've seen a few painted black/flat black, and one painted burnt orange. I've also seen a few painted in Eddie Lawson Racing colors. Seeing the bikes without stripes got me thinking it was doable. Now to choose a color. I'm stuck between Ford's current Ruby Red Metallic and my old favorite, Sonic Blue. Decisions, decisions...

Nice find there. Id stick to red for the paint , its a one year only model you could find the missing parts by using ebay.

Love that instrument binnacle, the led fuel level light!!! Shows how far Kawasaki was ahead of the others back then.

I'll likely sell this bike in a couple years. From looking at asking prices for pristine bikes, it's not worth it, in a financial sense, to put the bike back to original condition. I've searched for the parts I'm missing on eBay, and haven't seen them. The only stripe kit I've found is $75. The retail price on the tail section is $250, and $120 for the grab bar. I'll spend less money putting decent paint on it, in a single color with no stripes. I'll have fun with the bike for a while, and when I sell it, if the new owner wants to go back to stock, I will not have put him any farther behind than it already was, but it'll look good in the meantime, and run great.

Folks, I could really use some help. I know the answer to this question is simple, and I'll probably feel really dumb once it's answered. There are two 3-way joint "T"s, one between carbs #1 & #2, and one between carbs #3 & #4. What do I do with them? When I got the bike, one of them had a piece of wood plugging the top part of the T. I've attached an image circling the part(s) in question.

All I have left to get the bike running is to re-gang the carbs and get them mounted. I have brakes now, the carbs are all cleaned up with new o-rings, I have fresh plugs, fresh oil, new oil & fuel filters, and I've cleaned and re-oiled the pod filters.

I appreciate any help with this.

I believe those are for the vent tubes. Ed

650ed wrote: I believe those are for the vent tubes. Ed

So, do I just run vac line from each tee to open air or connect them to something specific, or to each other?

In stock configuration, they often go straight up from the carbs, rearward along the frame, down behind the airbox, ending 2-4 inches below and in front of the swngarm pivot. Many guys with pods will simply end them behind the side covers.