Dardoonk's 82 GPz1100 resto

Well, here's the beginning of a resto of my new to me 82 GPz1100. All in all, the bike is complete, but is this whole build is going to take me a while.


I'll be doing everything except honing the cylinders, any powder coating I want, and probably having the inside of the tank "de-creamed" so to speak. I want to do everything possible to keep it original, which means sorting thru the FI issues I might have. I have access to two other ECU's that were removed while functioning, but would rather convert to an MS box before I would give in put carbs on her.



The tank is my first concern and the first order of business is to clean out the beige gunk in there. "Idunnowhat Brand" or who did such a lousy job sealing the tank, but I think me needs some professional advice on how to clean it all out. If anyone knows of a tank restoration service, this might be a candidate. Material appears to be a latex type product and looks like crap.


Second, if anyone can take a look at the header and tell me what brand it is??


Thirdly, I gots me lots of work to do... Everything will be rebuilt or restored to as close to stock as I can get. '82 stock exhaust might be hard to come by, so I may have to keep the header.

Hmmm...the pipe really resembles a Yosh pipes (Yoshimura) and if it is a Yosh pipe, it is worth more than what you paid for the entire bike:) Highly desired yet rarely acquired. The tank is another matter...I also have one of those B2 kreemed tanks and I have yet to locate anyone who will remove that material...I have purchased some MEK and acetone to attempt to do it myself, though...a nice spring day will herald the attempt.

Which brings me to the deteriorating Kreem...do you know if the previous owner tried to run the bike with a poorly 'set' Kreem job? Gasoline will dissolve improperly set Kreem and your motor will attempt to burn it:) That is the issue I'm dealing with...ended up replacing the injectors and fuel pump, pulled the head (removed all the epoxy-like substance which is which dissolved Kreem turns into when exposed to detonation), cleaned off the epoxy-like Kreem coating on the valves (which caused them to stick and eventually get bent)...bottom line being inspect your motor well before reassembly and get rid of Kreem...

Acetone readily dissolves and removes the old Kreem liner inside the fuel tank. Almost filling the tank with fresh new acetone, soaking for awhile (it didn't take very long -- works rather quickly like using fingernail polish remover), then fast dump out through the cap hole. Flush/rinse again with more fresh acetone as desired (swish it around inside tank).

No real need to shake tank very much, because the acetone fumes themselves seem to also help. I used almost three gallons, almost filling the tank, probably way too much, but didn't want to wait around for the results, which came quickly.

Of course, tank is removed from bike during the entire interior cleaning operation.

And double of course, be extra careful to keep acetone from contacting the exterior paint. I was paranoid cautious about this on oem original painted tanks (both Z1 and 76LTD), and was happily successful.

May need to follow-up with standard rust removal procedure of your choice after removing the Kreem. The muratic acid method worked for me. But other good (safer) methods might be the "B-B's in dryer" and/or "electrolysis" techniques.

Good Luck!

Yup, that header look's like a yoshi to me, i wish i could find one for my z1. I didn't know about the kreemed tanks being a problem, but it does make since that the improperly set-up Kreem will disolve, and reek havock on your valves and engine. You never can trust the work someone else does, i bought a chain and sproket set-up from a bike shop here, and they said they would put it on free of charge, well i didn't get a mile away and the chain had hopped off the rear sprocket, because the never tightened the chain by way of the rear adjusters, and the axle castle nut almost fell out. I was so pisse, i fixed it in a mcdonalds parking lot, went back and bitched up a storm, i ended up getting all my money back. By the way nice bike.

oldkaws4ever wrote:

You never can trust the work someone else does,

You said a mouthful there. I've learned to trust only the work I've done or seen done myself... Kreem job on this bike is a perfect example. I read last night that Methelyne Chloride works well to strip the Kreem too. MeCL is the main ingredient in Aircraft Stripper. I am not sure if it dissolves the Kreem or just bubbles it off in chunks.

Patton, does the Kreem pour right out with the Acetone, or is it a pain in the butt to get all of it out?

I already have the head off. It looks to be in good condition. Nothing broken or cracked. No surprises except for pretty heavy deposits built up on 1 & 4 valves.

What is anyone's experience with valve guides needing replaced? I was told the guides on 80 & later bikes were more durable than early KZ's so it is not likely they would need replaced. Anyone that confirm this is true?

Would like comments on the pistons. I am used to seeing an even layer of black carbon buildup, but it isn't like I've been tearing down engines for a long time. I haven't had a 20K mile motor apart either. Hopefully this looks "normal"?

Good to see you here and to finally see some of the photos of the bike.

What kind of can did the exhaust have on it?

As for the guides, given the age and miles I'd replace the stem seals at least if the guides and seats are good.

It looks like there is some ruse down inside the engine and on the timing gear chain, is that real or a camera artifact?

The tank looks better than you described before you bought it, my early suggestion of hot tanking it would be a disaster as the paint and stripes don't look that bad in these photos. Maybe the camera is making it look better than it is but if not then do the acetone but check first for bubbles along the bottom of the tank on the sidestand side especially. Be sure to strip the tank of the all attachments and plug/cover the holes. If the rust isn't bad you can go a little milder and use white vinegar. I used Muratic acid with good results to but it is bad stuff and will cause anything within smelling distance of it to rust. Too nasty for me to use again but it might be the only method for you unless you have it dipped.

I used the Acetone in the tank today. I bought a gallon and rinsed out the Kreem 3X. Most of it came out in the first rinse. For good measure, I did it a second time. I have lots of gritty rust wherever I can feel inside. A lot of it broke loose when it dried, so I used another quart of acetone to empty out everything I could.

I am dropping it at a radiator shop in Kannapolis that does bike tanks on Friday. For about $125. they will hot tank it, remove all rust, fix any leaking areas & re-coat it with whatever it is they use.

Rage, the tank looks better in the pic than it is. Couple of dime size dents and some bubbled paint above one of the emblems. The tail & front mudguard need paint anyway, but with the colder weather, I can't shoot any of it until probably late April.

The timing chain has no rust on it. I'll know more this weekend when I get the bottom end pulled out. Considering the miles, there shouldn't be much wear, But it has set for years with no oil film on anything, so I haven't moved it yet.

Okay, the tank went to the radiator shop Friday & should be done by Wed this week. He thought is was in better condition than I described, so it should only run about $75.

I got a lot pulled apart the last two days and pretty much everything looks decent inside the motor. I'm going slow, trying to keep a mental picture of everything as I take it apart and snapping pics as I go. Never had a Kawi apart before, but actually the design seems a little more straightforward than the GS motors I'm used to.

Trans looks to be in nice shape with little wear. Clutch disks as well, so I just need new fibers. I'll split the cases tomorrow, but as far as I can tell, the bottom end will be fine.

Now for the problems I found/caused:(
1] PO has stripped the threads on the #3 plug and tried to replace with a Helicoil, but the one they used only goes 1/2 and the threads don't matchup. I can thread a plug halfway in from either the top or bottom. Not sure how to fix this except to remove the helicoil that is in there and try to put a longer one in. I've never needed to use one, so any help here is appreciated.

Other than that, the head is in good shape & a quick check of a few parts showed them well with in spec.

2] CO (current owner), that numb-skull... cracked a piston today. I picked up the motor to turn it around on my stand and it started to slip a little. As I went to steady it, the rotor rolled against my leg as the motor slipped down.. Well, that turned the crank and the edge of a piston caught the case and cracked along the bottom of the skirt. The crack is about 3/8" long and runs horizontal across the piston...

Looks like I need one 82 GPz1100 piston... blahhh.. If anyone has one, please let me know. If not what's the better choice for a BB kit; MTC or Wiseco? I've seen both, and am not looking to get radical with the motor. I don't intend on changing the cams or anything else.. Just a bore as needed and build the motor..