looking for a carb rebuild kit for Z1 carbs they are from a 1000

Hi first time posting, I have a 76 Z1, but it has 1000 carbs on it.  I thought they were all the 26mm's so not sure if its any diffrent.  So anyhoo, I was looking for a carb rebuild kit for it.  

Thanks all.

Most of the time the brass parts do not need more than a cleaning. Rubber parts o-rings should be replaced as well as gaskets and the float valve needs to at least be examined and may need replacement. Most aftermarket kits do not provide all that is needed and frequently include parts that are not needed.  Some of the parts they do provide tend to not be up to stock standards.

Both vm26ss and vm28ss carbs were stock on 1000s If you are going to order parts you may want to figure out just which set of carbs you have.

 

Agree with reusing all the brass if possible.  Float valves may need changing, and if they do, get real deal Mikuni or Keyster valves.  

What you will need is new float bowl gaskets, and new O-rings.  I have o-ring kits for the VM26 carbs.  Another thing that's recommended is to change the rubber coated fuel Tee's, since they are almost always cracked.  Needless to say, you should ungang the carbs and inspect everything and soak the bodies and brass jets in carb dip to clean the internal passages.  Shortcuts are long cuts, when it comes to carb rebuilding.  So take your time, and do the job right.  Do NOT just drop the bowls and change brass.  That is not a carb rebuild.

When You say 26 KZ1000 carbs, specify please. There's several variations of "1000" KZ carbs, although persons often lump them up as "1000" carbs. Don't know your intensions of final completion but i still have several sets of the Correct 76-77 KZ900 Z1200 carb banks. 

Well, first off, a 76 model is not a Z1.  It's a KZ900 in North America or a Z900 in some countries.  The Z1 model ended in 1975.

You need to be more specific about your carbs.  A couple of photos would help to identify which model you have on your bike.

The only brass parts where I've seen wear are float valves, needle jets and jet needles.  The rest are usually good to go.

For rebuilds I will only use Keyster carb kits.  You can buy them directly from Keyster, or you can also get them from Z1 Enterprises.

Hi all, thanks for the reply, took forever to find the reply. Nessism what do I soak the carbs in?


Hard Rock, I'll get some pix, and it says Z1 on the pink slip and the bike, but yes, I'm learning to find out there is a snobery/rejection of the 76 year.  I'm OK with that, I've always been a bit of an outsider anyhoo, so it works for me .

Asphault, ill get photos.

It's not snobbery/rejection, at least not on my part.  But it's important because there are a lot of differences between a KZ900 and the Z1 series.  If you want to get advice on your bike you need to be specific on the model or you may wind up with incorrect advice. 

As an example, you say you are looking for rebuild kits for Z1 carbs and then say they are from a 1000.  Z1 carbs are very different from 1000 carbs for one thing, and for another there are several different carbs on the 1000 series.  Any of them will work on a KZ900, but they all have different parts.  You need to know the specific carb type if you want to rebuild them.  Many people here will be able to tell if you provide photos.

Our of curiosity, what is the serial number of your engine?  If it's a 76 it should start with Z1E.

Bikeazoid wrote:

Hi all, thanks for the reply, took forever to find the reply. Nessism what do I soak the carbs in?


Hard Rock, I'll get some pix, and it says Z1 on the pink slip and the bike, but yes, I'm learning to find out there is a snobery/rejection of the 76 year.  I'm OK with that, I've always been a bit of an outsider anyhoo, so it works for me .

Asphault, ill get photos.

gsarchive.bwringer.com/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

This tutorial should help.  It's for Suzuki GS bikes, but the carbs are very similar to the KZ version VM's.

I use Berryman's carb dip.  Don't leave the bodies in more than a couple of hours, or at least check them, because the zinc bodies tend to turn dark if you leave them in the sauce a long time.  After dipping, I scrub them clean with a toothbrush and simple green Aircraft flavor.  Rinse well.  Last thing, I use spray carb cleaner, shooting through all the passages, to make sure they are all open as they should be.  Of particular importance is the pilot jet passages, which feed to small holes in the carb body throat.  Also, shoot through the choke pickup passage in the floatbowl.  Also, put the spray straw in the hole in the bottom of the choke plunger passage.  Shoot the cleaner and make sure it comes out the brass tube on the bottom of the carb.  That's the choke fuel passage. 

Good luck