TOPIC:

I was able to complete the brake pedal stop today.



I have it at the same height it would be for the 650, but that may have to change depending on how the rear master rod mounts.
There is a .020" recess for the frame tab to keep it from rotating.

I can adjust the brake rod accordingly when the brakes get assembled as they are ready to go. If I need to I can also put a screw adjuster on the end, just need to drill/tap for a M6 bolt but I will wait till the brakes are on.
 

Is the 650 brake pedal different than the 900-1000?

Vinsky wrote:

Is the 650 brake pedal different than the 900-1000?


 

Yes, the 1000 pedal has a offset post and more of a bend in it, the frame where the spindle sticks out may also be more outboard (don't know for sure)



I currently have a 7/8" spacer at the spindle behind the 650 pedal, there was no spacer on the stock setup.

 

Rainy day here so I decided to check my VM33's for leaks and fuel level before they are mounted.

I don't have the correct fitting for the float bowl thread so I just used a rubber beer bottle stopper. I had the carbs propped up on some 2x4's and a bungee cord holding the throttle bracket.

First pic is the tubing rested up against a mason jar, the second pic I was holding the end of the tube which cocked the stopper.





It looks to me to be a acceptable fuel level (check with alcohol) and there were no leaks at the joints. Another thing off the check list.
 

Got stuck into the tires today, removing old and installing new. The old front tire came off pretty easy, was able to break the beads by standing on it. The new tire is already installed but not balanced.



The old rear tire was not so easy. First I tried standing on it to break beads, no luck. Then I tried a big C clamp, no luck. Finally pulled down and assembled my bead breaker.



Should have started with it but I only put about 10 minutes into the other methods. I am still working on getting that old rubber off with tire irons in my basement. Once the tires are both balance they will be assembled on the frame. Then its just a matter of installing the brakes.

One thing I did want to address was some frame holes I wanted to cover up. Here is a picture of the bike with my luggage rack installed.



I have a custom made steel license plate holder that has some square tube welded to it. This mounts some 650 signal indicators in a lower position to clear my soft bags.

The diamond shaped holes in the frame where the stock signals would sit is a little unsightly, so I made some aluminum covers to hide those holes.



I had two scrap .040" sheet aluminum hole saw blanks that were the correct size. I made some backing plates out of some Acetal plastic, then I assembled the covers with M6 button head bolts and nylock nuts.



They have the desired effect.



The grab rails are on there till I finish tuning the carbs, then the luggage rack will be installed.
 

Coming along nicely   the luggage will definitely complete the "sleeper" look you are going for 

Wookie58 wrote:

Coming along nicely 

 the luggage will definitely complete the "sleeper" look you are going for 

 

The rack is only going to be used in mid June to go to my annual swap meet weekend. Here is what it looks like in action.



Weight balance will be better with the Z1 engine in place. There is a bit more gear strapped on because I was riding with a guy who did not have a rack installed, so I helped him out by piling stuff on my bike.

As for the "sleeper" look, it is accomplished with a air box and a dual muffler exhaust. 650 side covers help as well

 

When I bought this engine for this project it was originally not intended to be put in a street bike. It did not come with a kick start lever so I bought the cheapest one I could find on Ebay not really looking at the condition too much. It was bent pretty good when I got it.

Here is the before pic :



This would have been almost impossible to kick thru. I got a MAP gas torch out and heated it to bend it back with a long pipe. I put it in a vice with a tube thru the splined block so I could eyeball it to make it as parallel to the starter shaft as I could get it.

This is the after pic :



This I can work with and it should function correctly when needed.

I did not try to take the bend out in the other direction, you can see its about 3/4" bent from straight which I will have to deal with.



Hopefully I won't need to use it too much.
 

Will it miss the carbs? Mine sits right against them. 

 

The bend goes to the outside so there is more clearance to the carbs.

I do have another kick start lever on my 1327cc drag bike that is slightly straighter, but don't want to steal it off that build.

I did not get much done the last couple of days. Mounted the handle bar and plugged in the switch wiring.



I also balanced the new front tire which only took one 1/4 OZ weight. Got the rear tire off after a bit of a struggle, not shocked as its been on there for 12 years.

Hoping to get the wheels on shortly but it means shifting a work cart that has a ton of stuff on it. I need to find a home for that stuff in the garage then park the cart somewhere else as there is not enough room with the wheels on the frame. Limited space in the garage is starting to suck!

Long weekend here and nothing planned so I will try to stay on top of it. Already made a list of chassis torque specs so will go thru it with a torque wrench before I forget.






 

Wondering how the bead braker worked. Does your 650 rim have the ribs on the inside to hold the tire in place? PITA on mine to get past them. 
Lots of soapy water and 4 c clamps later I got it off. 
That's why I got this one. 
 
Hopefully it will be easier this time. 
Steve
BTW this guy didn't use any lube on the tires and I don't think he had to deal with locking beads. 


Oh and I'll be putting the tire/rim in the sun for a while to heat it up. That should help as well.