TOPIC:

Done quite a bit of searching and wandering down YouTube rabbit holes, but not finding much other than older posts here where the photos have expired that show how exactly one mounts up a set of clip-on bars. On the fence as to whether to go with a set of clubman bars (which seem pretty straightforward) vs a set of clip-ons.  As I'm looking at the bike, I don't see anywhere for them to go, with the headlight bracket seemingly in the way, and most of the videos I've seen either show it somehow with enough space or they pull the bolts out that I think hold the forks on and somehow get them to stretch out leaving enough room to mount the clip-ons above the headlight bracket.

Likely a simple task for most here, but as with most things for a newbie/idiot like me, it's not exactly making sense as I'm holding the parts up the to bike, so thanks in advance.

Edit: Added photo, and thinking more, I'm guessing the headlight bracket that's on there is probably stock and I don't see how it would come off but it wraps around the whole fork probably taking up too much space.

Generally you would remove the top yolk, slide the "clip-on" over the upper fork tube and then re-fit the top yolk. Not sure how big you are or how much you plan to ride the bike and in how much town traffic ? clip-ons are pretty uncompromising so "clubman bars" maybe the better option for a bike you will ride regularly in traffic (just my opinion)
EDIT: just seen your picture, clip-on's aren't an option with those style headlamp mounts

Not a small individual, but only 5'10 on a good day so I don't think that'll be a major issue, also only really plan to ride it on backroads on nice days so traffic shouldn't really be a regular thing.

Dumb question, to remove the yolk/yoke/triple clamp, I just remove the big bolts below the speedo/tach? Seeing videos of others taking those off it seems the front likes to slide out, so I'm guessing I should prepare for that with some straps maybe? And I'll need to source some different headlight brackets that don't take up as much space on the fork is all? This will leave space for the clip-ons?

Leaning towards the clip-ons only because the clubman bars I ordered (www.amazon.com/dp/B07LF4P57L?psc=1&ref=p...dt_b_product_details) look to have almost the same position and rake as the stock bars.  Are there different clubman bars I should be looking at?

As long as you don't loosen the bolts on the lower yolk the forks won't move so no need for straps etc. Different H/Lamp mounts would do the trick. Hopefully there is enough give in the instrument wiring etc (and everything else mounted to the top yolk) to lift it far enough to slip on the clip-ons. While it's off it would be worth referring to the manual and adjusting/lubricating the headstock bearings at the same time.
PS: the clubman bars in the Amazon add are mounted upside down !!!!! Also don't forget if you go down to clip-ons you may need shorter brake hoses as well

 

 

Ah ok, that makes more sense. I was struggling to understand why anyone would bother with the clubmans. Thinking i'll go that route given they're pretty close to the clip-ons without as much headache for me anyway.

Dumb question. Seems most of the stuff just comes off with bolts/clamps but how to I take off/reinstall the throttle tube, etc?

Once you undo the screws on the bottom of the switch housing and separate the pieces (carefully, and keep track of where the long and short screws go) you should be able to slide the throttle housing/tube off the end of the bar. If there isn't enough slack in the throttle cables to allow this, undo the two handlebar clamps (four bolts total) in the middle and move the handlebars around as needed to give you the slack. You may need to wiggle the housing a bit since it might not have been removed in the past ~48 years.

*** I strongly recommend you remove the fuel tank first. It's not necessary to do that to swap the bars but it is necessary to reduce the risk of dents and/or scratches. ***

The handgrip on the clutch side will be a different hurdle. Grips aren't supposed to move, but you may be able to work it back and forth (again carefully) to get it to the end of the bar and remove it. An easier way to do this is simply to cut the old grips off and install new ones. There are a couple good methods for installation: one involves compressed air and one involves dishwashing liquid. There should be YT videos available to demonstrate.

While you're in there, get some electrical contact cleaner (spray) and clean up the switches; they can probably use it.

Speaking of electrical, if the new bars are painted you will need to clear a spot to bare metal under the horn button. (You won't need to do this with chrome bars.) The horn button makes an electrical (ground) connection to the bars, and if there is paint in the way the horn will not work.

Hugely appreciate all of that, only took the tank off once to find a short and think i'll keep it on for this but will be extra careful about not denting the tank.  Have new grips and had seen videos of using compressed air to get the new grips on so I should be good there but good to know on the horn. Will say though that at anything more than idle it's not really loud enough to be heard over the exhaust anyway.  Still sorta looking for replacement slip-ons that'll fit to quiet it down since just repacking the ones I had didn't seem to help much.

There is a service manual located on site that may provide some additional info you may find helpful. 

kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/74-77...chablefullmanual.pdf

Ok so I'm getting to adding the clubman's, but they're not really fitting well. I got 7/8" bars to match the stock one but not really fitting super well and also getting the clutch back on was a nightmare but it's there.

Am I doing something wrong? Or just keep tightening the bars down?

Also, apparently there's a mounting hole for the stock throttle mechanism in the stock bars? Is there a way around drilling a hole for this in the new bars?

There should be a small gap between the two halves of the riser (this ensures the bars are secure) try and get the gap even in front and behind the bars
You need to drill the locating holes for the throttle and switches, if you cut the pegs off the throttle and switches they will slip round