TOPIC:

It might be bad unlees you have a means of testing the igniter.
Here's a listing of compatable igniters from several Kawasaki's:
IC Igniter Replacements

KZ1000-J1 (1981)
KZ1000-J2 (1982)
KZ1000-J3 (1983)
KZ1000-K1 (LTD) (1981)
KZ1000-K2 (LTD) (1982)
KZ1000-M1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ1000-M2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ1000-P1 (Police 1000) (1982)
KZ1000-P2 (Police 1000) (1983)
KZ1000-P3 (Police 1000) (1984)
KZ1000-P4 (Police 1000) (1985)
KZ1000-P5 (Police 1000) (1986)
KZ1000-R1 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1982)
KZ1000-R2 (Eddie Lawson Replica) (1983)
KZ1100-A1 (Shaft) (1981)
KZ1100-A2 (Shaft) (1982)
KZ1100-A3 (Shaft) (1983)
KZ1100-B1 (GPz) (1981)
KZ1100-B2 (GPz) (1982)
KZ1100-D1 (Spectre) (1982)
KZ1100-D2 (Spectre) (1983)
KZ1100-L1 (LTD Shaft) (1983)
Also, any igniter with one of the following part #'s will work since the original was superseded by these numbers:

21119-1356
21119-1041

If not already done, would assure integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine.

And also assure that the black/yellow wire from the igniter is reaching and providing a good ground.

Good Fortune!

I have a multimeter and have been testing resistance of everything with that. I also do have 12v to the coils. If it helps, ill post up exact oHm readings of the igniter. Every other ignition component was in spec.

If it were me, I'd get the parts and build a igniter, but if your money is tight,then getting a used one is about it for choices.

ShouterVW wrote: I have a multimeter and have been testing resistance of everything with that. I also do have 12v to the coils. If it helps, ill post up exact oHm readings of the igniter. Every other ignition component was in spec.

Is the intermittent loss of spark on all plugs, or limited to outside plugs, or limited to inside plugs?

With intermittent loss of spark, despite consistent adequate voltage to a good coil -- indicates a problem with regular ungrounding of the coil primary winding (which ungrounding causes the coil to fire).

The 3 o'clock pick-up works with the igniter to unground the coil firing outside plugs.

The 9 o'clock pick-up works with the igniter to unground the coil firing inside plugs.

An inconsistent signal due to a malfunctioning pick-up coil (heat-related or whatever) could result in intermittent loss of spark.

Inconsistent grounding through the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter (heat-related or whatever) could result in intermittent loss of spark.

An intermittent break in any of wiring between the pick-ups and igniter or igniter and coil, could result in intermittent loss of spark.

If bench-testing the igniter checks out okay, would look to the wiring and connectors. And attempt to re-create the disconnect by manipulating and wiggling the various wires involved and where they fit into the connectors.

If the coils are old (perhaps accompanied by permanently built-in integral spark plug wires that are old, cracked, hard, worn out and possibly leaking voltage), and with an old questionable igniter -- it may be time to consider new Dyna coils and plug wires, along with a new Dyna-S ignition, and toss the igniter, which collectively should eliminate further ignition issues.

Good Fortune!

I have bench tested the igniter, it was far out of spec. Which is why I concluded it was the culprit.

Well I went ahead and did the GM Igniter Mod, and it fired right up! Now to get the carbs adjusted so it does not bog at low rpm's...

Carbs been cleaned before? I have a two part procedure that's popular if you need it.