I HAVE A 79 KZ750B4 IM TURNING INTO A CAFE'

IM HAVING SOME ELECTRIC ISSUES...

MAIN ONES are NO SPARK AT THE POINTS??

WHAT IS BAD THAT LEADS TO THIS...I CHECKED FOR POWER AT THE 2 WIRES COMING OUT OF THE COIL..2 YELLOW ONES ...

THATS ALL I WAS ABLE TO GET TO SO FAR..

ALSO NOTHING HAPPENS WHEN THE STARTER BUTTON IS PUSHED...BUT I DO GET THE STARTER TO TURN WHEN I JUST THE SYLINOIDE(sp)

OTHER ELECTRIC ISSUES ALSO....BUT I WANT TO SEE IF THIS MOROT WILL RUN OR NOT

sorry for the CAPS!!!
I have the manual i downloaded from someone around here

anyone

Thanx

ttt

u gotta be more specific, do u have lights, chek the fuse, etc,etc battery check ???, more info will get u more help, there are also troublshooting guides in most manuals

To address the "no spark at the points" problem. There should not be spark at the points. If there is you probably have a faulty condenser. If there is spark at the points they will erode and fail prematurely.

I did a quick google search and came up with this explanation. click here to learn how a points ignition system works.

Your manual has a section on your ignition system.

had lights and all...

i was told there should be a lil spark seen at the points...so i was askin what i should check on the bike ...

i have read the manual and will do some of the info found in there..

was lookin to see if anyone knew of this issue

there is visible electric charge in the points gap when it opens, whether u call it "spark " or not, whatever, ur link puts it at 250 volts upon opening, HES NOT GET ELECTRICITY TO POINTS

u say u HAD lights ??/start at battery and work ur way out loose ground from batt to frame maybe, check fuse , positive cable from batt??? start simple

^^ thank you....

my info was from an my pop and he is an oldschool auto guy...so i figured it worked the same as a car and i would see a lil somethin...


so im gonna start with the fuses and whatnot...they look ok but im sure that could be false..


thanx for input!!

i fixed the ground already....
and yes had all the lights goin for a bit there...then i screwed my self useing break clean on the plastic clips...melted them...have to redo 2 of them...

Just because fuses look ok doesnt mean they are.Cheap to replace all the fuses in the box.Old fuses can corrode on the inside,look ok and still be shot.Ask me how I know this.Lol.bj

agreed!!

im on it!

gonna start there and then fix the 2 connectors i melted with break clean spray...DONT USE IT TO CLEAN THE CONNECTIONS....ask me how i kow that!!! haaaa

make sure all lights are working again...

then go to the start/stop and ignition switches

then check for voltage at points

and then just incase look for any voltage at the plug caps..

pretty sure that should do me...

i replaced 4 or so connections already and the harness looks in good shape....so i thought anyway

UPDATE

so i got all the lights back up and running ...properly i think...the blinkers are all full time....is that a running light?? should they be always on? and they dont blink...but that could be the switch...


fixed the fuses...i still need 2 10 amps to go with the 20 amp thats in there...tuff to read the oether 2..so im not sure if they are 10's

i still have not voltage at the coil or points...no spark that i can see??

i have gone thru most of the herness...but there is still more

i did totally goe threw the start stop...cleaned it all up and now is perfect....but didnt help...sux!

so im at the head light area to see that going on in there..? there a are a few cut and not connected wires..

and there is a few on the harness just wrapped together...i see the P/O has tape on alot of stuff as he must of been going thru it also..

so there is nothing on that electric area by the fuses that will cause my problem?? could some there be bad?

and how do the point get there power?? i see nothing going to them....just comin from them to the coil is it...what supplies the points with power?

could the condencer/capacitor be the issue...i know that is supposed to regulate the voltage when it opens...could it stop a spark or power for that area?

ill be doing more work on it tomorrow night...

what could be in the ignition that might be an issue if i see all lights? and the connector plug...the big one for it looks great..no crud..


Thanx for any info

Marc

well all ur accessories work, thats a start,
does the starter turn over when u hit the button ??
if no the check power to starter button
if yes disconnect wires to points, check them for continuity
could be a pinched wire, happened to me once
redo all badly done connections NOW
then proceed with testing
the fuses are color coded if u cant see the numbers, replace all
no power to points automatically means now power to coil as points control/operate coils
flasher probably bad on signals
save that for last
good luck

cool thanx^^^

nothing happens when i hit the starter botton...but it oemed out when i had it apart..ill chech power to it...where does power come in form for the start button?


what/where supplies voltage to the points area??

will redo some more connection...i got most of them already

bgmrc wrote:
u need a wiring diagram or
trace the wires from the component in question
if u got power to the button, then ur next problem would be the starter relay,its probably bad, if it dont turn over then no power will go to points, so save that till next

MY MANUAL HAS WIRE DIAGRAM FOR CANADIAN AND EUROPE VERSION ONLY...UGGHH

THANX FOR INFO..

ILL KEEP CHECKIN FOR POWER TO START BUTTON

From what I see the USA and Canadian models have the same wiring.
Here is the diagram, it is under file base here on KZR. Go to the green bar at the top, Under KZ Information, get into file base and search. It comes up as a pdf, you need adobe acrobat reader to view.

Now look at the Diagram, you need power from the battery across the 20 amp fuse on the White wire going into the ignition switch. That's first, make sure of it. Then with the key on you should have power coming out of the Ignition switch on the Yellow wire to the coil. Then also the Brown wire at the Ignition switch should have power when the key is on, this goes to your start button, and brake light switch to name a few.

that a good one, its colored, the FSMs all are in black and white only

And this has the contacts as the Ignition switch is in different positions, with the wire colors.

Also looking you should have a starter lock out switch, that means that the clutch lever needs to be pulled in to have the starter button supply power to the solenoid. Its at the back of the lever perch, two black wires coming of, 1 from the start button, then the other down to the solenoid.

ohm test the coils, if you have power to them and they are grounded and no spark at the points, someone left the ignition on and the coils are FRIED COOKED

BURNT TOASTED.
ROASTED.
SCORCHED
SEARED
MELTED
INCINERATED

welcome to thermal breakdown.
Poke each coil in the middle with your finger.
If you hear a short raspy cough come out of the coil, and it emits a small whisp of smoke they're gone, bury them properly in the back yard and seek counciling, (couple whisky shots).

OR
I'm up too early again today.

Motor Head wrote: