TOPIC:

Nebr_Rex wrote: Is there an adjustment screw just to the inside of no. 4 carb?
Which 'mechanic' did you have work done by? I know of two in
your area that are old school drag racers that are good. And
they both have dynos also.


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Good morning!
My "mechanic" was a random Craigslist find.
I've since been given two other numbers:
Craig Stevens - Refered to as a genius with old bikes
H - Refered to as "best mechanic in the area with Kz and Z1

I am trying to DIY for a couple reasons: money, experience, hobby
I do however recognize that I will need someone to run to when I run out of: skill, patience, or when the money spent by my learning is less than paying an expert

To answer the question about an adjustment screw- there is an air screw on each of the four carbs. There are adjustment screws on top of each carb that I will use with a vacuum gauge, but I am not aware of any other adjustment screws. I have the z1b carbs.

I think I have an early air box, I'll look for it.
As for the high idle. How is your 'choke'/fuel enrichment circuit working?
If it's still rich according to the plugs and a high idle I would look there.


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And there is Robertson.


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Nebr_Rex wrote: And there is Robertson.


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Does he have a first name? I am super intrigued from the intro

Can you detail more about the choke/enrichment circuit? The choke is down and the plungers were all looking to be in good condition. The throttle pulley is resting on the throttle stop screw.
I've seen posts saying anything more than two turns out and the pilot is too rich, other posts however saying I can go up to 3 turns out on the air screw and be ok. Any input?
Also, at what RPM idle should I start getting worried about it being too high? I shut it down last night because I was nearing 3k

Also, I appreciate you helping me out and looking for that airbox

Annnnnnnnnd.....
The string of curses continues.
Can anyone tell me why the PO would have used B8HS plugs instead of B8ES? I am worried about putting longer plugs in there if I don't know why he used shorter ones.
It seems he may have bored out the plug on cylinder 4 as well. The plug that came out of that hole is 15mm where the other three are 13mm.
Picture for reference.

And more...
Here are some notes from earlier:
Jets 120 main and 20 pilots

Air screw w needles 1/5 leanest
Fully closed - died
1/2 turn - died
3/4 turn - idle at 2000rpm
1 turn - idle at 2200rpm

The engine was pretty hot while testing so I figured I could richen it up by dropping the needle clip...

Air screw w needle 2/5 lean
1 turn - idle 4000-4500rpm
1 turn full choke - 2100rpm

How does lowering the needle clip increase my rpm by 2k?

Braking down...buying stock airbox

OH GRAMMA!

You should hunt down the po and beat him with a stick!,
Most likely the threads in that hole were stripped, and he chose that route rather than a proper fix. I cannot imagine a good reason for shorter plugs unless he also countersunk the remaining sparkplug holes. If that proves to be true, you should shovel a bunch of fire ants into his underwear before the beating.........

Something sounds wrong. What kind of condition are your carb holders in? Cracked and old? Raising and lowering needles should not make a lot of difference on the idle rpm unless you have a vacuum leak some place.

Fire ants. Texas KZ I concur.

Conspiracy wrote: Annnnnnnnnd.....
The string of curses continues.
Can anyone tell me why the PO would have used B8HS plugs instead of B8ES? I am worried about putting longer plugs in there if I don't know why he used shorter ones.
It seems he may have bored out the plug on cylinder 4 as well. The plug that came out of that hole is 15mm where the other three are 13mm.
Picture for reference.

STOP right there.

From what I seen of the exhaust stud and that spark plug. You will be miles ahead in time and money
if you find another head. And for the two cycle shops they are Robertson Cycle and Marine and Clifford Cycle.



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Nebr_Rex wrote:

Conspiracy wrote: Annnnnnnnnd.....
The string of curses continues.
Can anyone tell me why the PO would have used B8HS plugs instead of B8ES? I am worried about putting longer plugs in there if I don't know why he used shorter ones.
It seems he may have bored out the plug on cylinder 4 as well. The plug that came out of that hole is 15mm where the other three are 13mm.
Picture for reference.

STOP right there.

From what I seen of the exhaust stud and that spark plug. You will be miles ahead in time and money
if you find another head. And for the two cycle shops they are Robertson Cycle and Marine and Clifford Cycle.



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I was getting worried that we were headed in the direction of "get another head"

I will call Robertson. I dropped off the one carb that I broke a screw off in the throttle arm at Clifford, two days later he couldn't find 10 minutes to drill it out. Dude is crazy busy.

I think my carb holders are ok. I can double check that I got the carb all the way back on there after I dropped the clip down but I thought I was ok there. Anything else we can think of that would cause such a dramatic difference on idle from just dropping the needle clip down?
Am I thinking right that going down a notch should have lowered the rpm?

Have you adjusted with your idle screw at all? This will allow you to lower or raise your rpm's.

Bama704 wrote: Have you adjusted with your idle screw at all? This will allow you to lower or raise your rpm's.

Yes - I have posted some notes above.
At fully closed the engine died.
At 1/2 turn out the engine died.
At 1 turn out the engine idled at 2200rpm.
At 3/4 turn out the engine idled at 2000rpm.
The idle adjustment screw is all the way out, not affecting idle at all.
The throttle spring is all the way closed against the throttle stop screw.

Currently I am at 4500rpm idle. I must have not seated the carbs back on after the last time I removed them. I can't think of anything I could have done when I moved the needle up yesterday that would have caused such a dramatic difference.

I am thinking that I need to start from square one again. I have not personally done the clear tube test and have not personally checked valve clearance.

I got a quote from a local shop that has cylinder heads for around $300. Is that reasonable to correct the exhaust port and spark plug issue?