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GasMoney wrote: . . .

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GasMoney wrote: First off, '82 KZ440 ltd, the engine dies within seconds of having the petcock on the ON position. Second, it runs just fine on RESERVE position....

If this is still an issue, can test for fuel coming from the petcock's different positions by loosening a carb drain screw and watching for drainage of any incoming fuel in each petcock position.

Good Fortune!

Seems like it would be easy enough to partially disassemble the petcock and assure that the internal gasket or whatever is correctly fitted to allow fuel flow in RES and ON and to disallow fuel flow when OFF.

Good Fortune!

Meanwhile, take a break, and reflect on the following example's easily accessible petcock and assured tank venting:





Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

Kray-Z wrote: ... My main beef with the Kawasaki vacuum petcock (on my '81 KZ1000CSR) was that when the vacuum valve failed, you couldn't shut the gas off to remove the tank. I either had to syphon the tank or let gas spill all over while trying to pull the tank off the bike....

Have on occasion used vise-grips clamped onto the fuel line.

Good Fortune!

Patton - if I could have, I would have....I had to remove the line from the petcock, as it would have been very difficult to get to the carb end of it to remove or install it and the spring clamp. So the "Vise Grip" ( I have the special hose pinch locking plier tools that snap on sells) would have required cutting the fuel line every time,, or creating a union connection in the line....I didn't want to do either. I bought a generic but high quality all metal body fuel valve and machined an aluminum adapter plate for the tank bottom, with a nitrile O-ring gasket. I've never had a problem with it since....

I think I'll keep the manual petcock and inspect it carefully.
I was under the impression having the vacuum petcock would help my issue in some way.
I'll be checking for leaks in the seals very soon and do a compression test as well.
As for the airbox, it's there, just not the "filter element" which is what a lot of them seem to be missing.
I'm also missing the breather tube "part 11, 12, 13, 14" and I'm wondering how important they really are.

Here is "part 10" on mine.


The idea for the pods came from HERE
Seems like a good solution.

The breather tube parts 11 - 13 seems to be a crankcase breather tube that ran from the top of the engine valve cover to the air box. It is not critical, but if you wanted you could probably replace it with a rubber hose that fits. I thought you were missing major parts of the air box, but you have most of it intact - then? Can you get an air filter assembly (parts 2 -4) from Kawasaki? It seems as if that part should still be available...?

Kray-Z wrote: Can you get an air filter assembly (parts 2 -4) from Kawasaki? It seems as if that part should still be available...?

The airbox itself is listed for sale everywhere but I have that. Every so often the filter assembly can be found on Ebay for $50+ but I can't justify spending that kind of money on a simple plastic part. Really, I would think the goal would be to match the resistance of air flow that the air filter assembly has. I've seen some interesting ways of substituting that little part but the link above was by far the best. I saw a bunch of people putting the pods directly on the carbs which luckily I'm a good few steps above that.