TOPIC:

First off, '82 KZ440 ltd, the engine dies within seconds of having the petcock on the ON position. Second, it runs just fine on RESERVE position. I'm noticing there's only one line coming from the petcock. (Isn't there supposed to be two lines?)

I recently had my tank completely recoated by a professional radiator guy, then I got a new petcock and fuel line. Then I took it to a shop and got the carbs cleaned out and everything set up nice. Rode around for a day and then it wouldn't start so well. I finally got it started, sounded decent until it left me stranded. RPMs jumped up way high and basically acted like the battery was dead or was out of gas. Took it back to the shop and they said I had fuel line issues. The shop also told me I had "junk" in the carbs and needed to blow that all out.

My reaction was basically "do what you think you need to do". They never mentioned the petcock issue. Let me skip over the part where I totally chew them out for charging me twice for a carb job, unscrewing the tach and replacing a brand new fuel line...

So I have the bike running really well at times, and a little weak at others. I try to start it every day and it seems to run the best every other day. The weather is the same every time. Today was cooler and it started up a lot nicer. When I start it I have the choke on almost full and the RPMs are way low. Slightly let up on the choke and the RMPs are screaming at me (can't tell where its at because the tach mysteriously stopped working) and starts smoking out the pipes a bit. When I put the choke back on a little the RMPs are even higher! I take the choke off all the way and it sounds really smooth and good, maybe a little weak so I adjust the idle screw to compensate and it sounds perfect.

Does this have anything to do with the fuel source or petcock issue? Also worth mentioning; the first few rides ate up a lot of fuel for the little ground that I covered. I'm now taking notes on the gas usage but it seems better now.

I want to put some 1" pods under the seat in place of a missing airbox like I've seen in another post and wonder what that's going to do. The shop guy told me I'd be getting way too much air. He realized it was taking in too much air the SECOND time I took it in and it looks like he duct taped the vents halfway... Ugh!

Look at your bike's petcock. Does it have only one nipple (which would have a hose running down feeding fuel to the carbs) or does it have two nipples? If it has two nipples the second one is for the vacuum line which needs to be connected to the vacuum port on the carbs. If it has two nipples and the vacuum line is not connected between the petcock and the carbs the petcock will not function in the normal run position. Ed

Pics of the bike and plugs? Do you have one of these?
Steve

GasMoney wrote: . . . engine dies within seconds of having the petcock on the ON position. Second, it runs just fine on RESERVE position. . . .

Perhaps tank is low on fuel.

Good Fortune!

GasMoney wrote: First off, '82 KZ440 ltd, the engine dies within seconds of having the petcock on the ON position. Second, it runs just fine on RESERVE position. I'm noticing there's only one line coming from the petcock. (Isn't there supposed to be two lines?)

I recently had my tank completely recoated by a professional radiator guy, then I got a new petcock and fuel line. Then I took it to a shop and got the carbs cleaned out and everything set up nice. Rode around for a day and then it wouldn't start so well. I finally got it started, sounded decent until it left me stranded. RPMs jumped up way high and basically acted like the battery was dead or was out of gas. Took it back to the shop and they said I had fuel line issues. The shop also told me I had "junk" in the carbs and needed to blow that all out.

My reaction was basically "do what you think you need to do". They never mentioned the petcock issue. Let me skip over the part where I totally chew them out for charging me twice for a carb job, unscrewing the tach and replacing a brand new fuel line...

So I have the bike running really well at times, and a little weak at others. I try to start it every day and it seems to run the best every other day. The weather is the same every time. Today was cooler and it started up a lot nicer. When I start it I have the choke on almost full and the RPMs are way low. Slightly let up on the choke and the RMPs are screaming at me (can't tell where its at because the tach mysteriously stopped working) and starts smoking out the pipes a bit. When I put the choke back on a little the RMPs are even higher! I take the choke off all the way and it sounds really smooth and good, maybe a little weak so I adjust the idle screw to compensate and it sounds perfect.

Does this have anything to do with the fuel source or petcock issue? Also worth mentioning; the first few rides ate up a lot of fuel for the little ground that I covered. I'm now taking notes on the gas usage but it seems better now.

I want to put some 1" pods under the seat in place of a missing airbox like I've seen in another post and wonder what that's going to do. The shop guy told me I'd be getting way too much air. He realized it was taking in too much air the SECOND time I took it in and it looks like he duct taped the vents halfway... Ugh!

Pods????

Sounds like drilling holes in the bottom of your boat to let water drain out, to be honest.

Why does every inexperienced old bike beginner want to junk their air box and / or run cheap junk pods?

I can only assume that these guys assume bike intake systems work the same as a 1968 Camaro with a 4 barrel 327 that runs without an air cleaner nearly the same as it does with one. This is not the case! High output motorcycle engines are extremely sensitive to intake and carburetor modifications and tuning. Unless you really want trouble, or have lots of performance motorcycle tuning experience already, leave the intake completely stock!

Try pulling random wires and vacuum hoses out from under the hood of your new EFI car and see what happens,,, would you try that? Of course not. The car probably wouldn't even start after that - right?

So what makes the amateur think they can simply remove or alter critical intake parts from their bike without running into problems?

The last really entertaining one I had here was a CB550 "bobber" creator / owner who left the stock air box in place, but removed the intake tubes between the two center carbs and air box, and the air filter and lid, but left the two outer tubes in place. He also made his own straight pipe 4-2 exhaust, set the points timing "by ear", and then asked me how much I would charge to get it to run properly by - ahem - "adjusting" the carbs!!!!! It was taking 40-60 seconds of cranking while playing with the throttle and choke, just to get the damn thing to fire on a hot day. Then it would only keep running if the choke was on....he didn't like my labor and parts quote, which was o.k. by me!

never mind.

GasMoney wrote: Slightly let up on the choke and the RMPs are screaming at me (can't tell where its at because the tach mysteriously stopped working) and starts smoking out the pipes a bit.

What color is the smoke - blue or black?

Kray-Z wrote: Pods????

[rant rant rant rant rant]

I understand where you're coming from, but how does that answer any of the OP's questions?

The smoke is ever so slightly blue so it must be burning rich?









Pictures. Yes it has gas and yes it has an inline fuel filter.


Ack!
The reason for the PODS is not because I think they look super cool under the seat where no one can see them. The reason is it hasn't had the air box since I've had it and this was the reasonable solution to that problem. I want to focus on getting it in good condition and not slamming it for the lousy state that it's in.

GasMoney wrote: The smoke is ever so slightly blue so it must be burning rich?

Unfortunately blue smoke means the engine is burning oil for some reason, like failed valve stem seals or worn piston rings.

The reason for the PODS is not because I think they look super cool under the seat where no one can see them. The reason is it hasn't had the air box since I've had it and this was the reasonable solution to that problem. I want to focus on getting it in good condition and not slamming it for the lousy state that it's in.

Don't worry about it - we all buy bikes in various states. However the stock carbs can be very difficult (or impossible) to tune correctly with pods which is why people recommend keeping the stock airbox if you have one. If you don't have one, you can try to track one down or you could swap the carbs for a set of Mikunis. They would be simpler to tune with pods.

Nerdy wrote:

Kray-Z wrote: Pods????

[rant rant rant rant rant]

I understand where you're coming from, but how does that answer any of the OP's questions?

Yeah, I know....sorry. Trying to emphasize the point, not only for this guy, but hopefully for any other newbie reading this that pods are not a simple "bolt on" replacement for the stock air box. Just hate to see another "going to run 'pods" post from a greenhorn. With as many problems as this owner / bike have to sort through, installing pods is like trying to put out a fire with gasoline...

GasMoney wrote: First off, '82 KZ440 ltd, the engine dies within seconds of having the petcock on the ON position. Second, it runs just fine on RESERVE position. I'm noticing there's only one line coming from the petcock. (Isn't there supposed to be two lines?)

I recently had my tank completely recoated by a professional radiator guy, then I got a new petcock and fuel line. Then I took it to a shop and got the carbs cleaned out and everything set up nice. Rode around for a day and then it wouldn't start so well. I finally got it started, sounded decent until it left me stranded. RPMs jumped up way high and basically acted like the battery was dead or was out of gas. Took it back to the shop and they said I had fuel line issues. The shop also told me I had "junk" in the carbs and needed to blow that all out.

My reaction was basically "do what you think you need to do". They never mentioned the petcock issue. Let me skip over the part where I totally chew them out for charging me twice for a carb job, unscrewing the tach and replacing a brand new fuel line...

So I have the bike running really well at times, and a little weak at others. I try to start it every day and it seems to run the best every other day. The weather is the same every time. Today was cooler and it started up a lot nicer. When I start it I have the choke on almost full and the RPMs are way low. Slightly let up on the choke and the RMPs are screaming at me (can't tell where its at because the tach mysteriously stopped working) and starts smoking out the pipes a bit. When I put the choke back on a little the RMPs are even higher! I take the choke off all the way and it sounds really smooth and good, maybe a little weak so I adjust the idle screw to compensate and it sounds perfect.

Does this have anything to do with the fuel source or petcock issue? Also worth mentioning; the first few rides ate up a lot of fuel for the little ground that I covered. I'm now taking notes on the gas usage but it seems better now.

I want to put some 1" pods under the seat in place of a missing airbox like I've seen in another post and wonder what that's going to do. The shop guy told me I'd be getting way too much air. He realized it was taking in too much air the SECOND time I took it in and it looks like he duct taped the vents halfway... Ugh!

OK. now that I have more time available to really get into this...

Petcock might be assembled incorrectly - it happens. I have had dealerships put them together wrong. The other possibility is that It is a vacuum operated petcock and you are missing the vacuum hose connection. This design only allows fuel to flow in the "on" position if the engine is cranking or running, creating intake vacuum. If it is missing the vacuum hose connection, then it would only run on reserve like you say, as reserve is also the "prime" position that bypasses the vacuum valve for easier starting when it has been sitting for a long time. You will need the Kawasaki Service Manual for this. Drain the tank and take the petcock off. Disassemble it and blow the passages clean with compressed air. Carefully follow the instructions, diagrams, and parts diagrams to put it back together. If it is a vacuum petcock, there will be two hose spigots on it - one large one for fuel out, the smaller for the vacuum hose coming from one of the carb venturis.

If the vacuum line to the petcock is disconnected, that could be the source of some of the other problems - it would create an intake vacuum leak which will cause an erratic / high idle, excessive fuel consumption, etc., and could cause serious engine damage in time.

That shop likely had to clean out the carbs the second time because of the crud in the tank, not because they didn't clean the carbs well enough the first time. You can't blame them if more dirt got washed into the carbs from the tank after they cleaned them the first time. They should have checked the tank, though, and installed an in-line fuel filter (this is a must have), but it isn't their fault your tank had crud in it. As it stands, now you don't like them and they don't like you - maybe find another shop and start over instead of going back for more abuse...

Remove that duct tape before it gets sucked into the carbs...duct tape engine tuning is not an art nor science and tells me a lot about that mechanic's knowledge (lacking)!

If you must run individual filters, at least get good ones - don't by the el - cheapo Emgo "Pods" that cost $10. While they might work in some applications, those will not work directly with your Mikuni CV carbs. The slides don't get correct signals with those filters and the bike won't run well (if at all) at higher engine speeds under load. At the very least, get oval K&N filters and the filter cleaning kit for them. Understand, unless Dyno-Jet makes a Stage 3 kit for your bike, you will most certainly have to tune the carbs to match the modification - idle mixture screws, accelerator pump (if equipped), pilot jets, needle jets, needle profiles / tapers, needle position, slide vents, slide cut away, main jets, float level, maybe even spark plug heat range might all need to be changed to make those filters work. Does that sound like fun? I'll bet you end up spending a considerable amount of money and time before you get it to work properly. For that reason, I strongly recommend you find all the used parts needed to put the stock air box and filter back on the bike. Then you only need to set the carbs as per the manual and you should be good to go.

Anyway - good luck and be persistent, and hopefully you can get it all sorted out...