TOPIC:

hey guys, i really hate to make threads like this but im at wits end and out of ideas.

backstory: bike sat for "3 years" according to previous owner, he started it in his garage for me and it immediately died under throttle. bike currently has a full kerker system and will be running the stock airbox with a k&n filter. p/o stated that the bike ran perfect when he parked it.

problem: bike will not start, will crank for years, starter sometimes makes a grind noise, starts immediately on starting fluid, but with out starting fluid it will not run.

carbs have been fully disassembled, each individual carb body soaked in carb cleaner/ultra sonic-ly soaked/ blown out with air/ and rebuilt with new jets from z1 enterprises. OEM float bowl gaskets, i kept the stock size idle jet and upped the main to a 112.5 to compensate for the filter and exhaust. besides that everything is as he had it.

i changed the plugs, and set the point gap to the stock settings. compression is from 155 to 180 "perfectly within the factory range".... and... hmm well im out of info for yall. i did an oil change also but doubt that maters much. can get pictures and videos on request. hopefully someone can point me in the right direction here, thanks!!!

Describe your starting procedure. Ed

trippmann wrote: hey guys, i really hate to make threads like this but im at wits end and out of ideas.

backstory: bike sat for "3 years" according to previous owner, he started it in his garage for me and it immediately died under throttle. bike currently has a full kerker system and will be running the stock airbox with a k&n filter. p/o stated that the bike ran perfect when he parked it.

problem: bike will not start, will crank for years, starter sometimes makes a grind noise, starts immediately on starting fluid, but with out starting fluid it will not run.

carbs have been fully disassembled, each individual carb body soaked in carb cleaner/ultra sonic-ly soaked/ blown out with air/ and rebuilt with new jets from z1 enterprises. OEM float bowl gaskets, i kept the stock size idle jet and upped the main to a 112.5 to compensate for the filter and exhaust. besides that everything is as he had it.

i changed the plugs, and set the point gap to the stock settings. compression is from 155 to 180 "perfectly within the factory range".... and... hmm well im out of info for yall. i did an oil change also but doubt that maters much. can get pictures and videos on request. hopefully someone can point me in the right direction here, thanks!!!

Hello, trippmann, and WELCOME to KZr!

Would re-clean the pilot circuit.



And also re-clean the enrichener (choke) circuit.



And when attempting to start the cold engine, don't even touch the throttle grip. Don't touch it.

Good Fortune!

start procedure is ignition on, full choke, no throttle, clutch in, press start button.

and i guess ill pull the carbs for the millionth time and insure that the idle circut is 100% clean.

Are the fuel bowl levels set correctly???

will recheck when i pull them tomorrow, but last i checked yes they were

little update for yall!

i pulled the carbs again when i got out of class. i followed the cleaning procedure as listed above with carb cleaner and with air. I also just got my carb jet picks in the mail today so i was able to clean the choke down tubes out better. i also checked my float levels dry "i know wet is better" they were all pretty much the same but i tweaked them to 23.5 mm "from float bowl gasket to the top of the float when the carbs were upside down".

so now, the bike will idle at 4k with the choke full on "is that the proper rpm for this bike?", i wasnt able to let it run long enough to see what happened when it was warm. i still have the issue of the bike dying when it gets any throttle.

are these bikes very picky to temperature before riding? i know with my bmw k75 if its not warmed up it will buck like hell if you give it throttle. its fuel injected also so different ball park i suppose.

anyway, during these diagnostics do i need to have the air box on? right now ive just been putting the carbs on and of with out it. should i plug the big vacuum tube that goes from the valve covers to the airbox? what about the crank cake breather on the bottom?

trippmann wrote: ... also checked my float levels dry "i know wet is better" they were all pretty much the same but i tweaked them to 23.5 mm "from float bowl gasket to the top of the float when the carbs were upside down"...i still have the issue of the bike dying when it gets any throttle... should i plug the big vacuum tube that goes from the valve covers to the airbox? what about the crank cake breather on the bottom?

The upside-down-dry-measured float height setting is notoriously unreliable, can do more harm than good, and may produce incorrect fuel levels. It's necessary to perform the clear-tube test in order to assure that fuel levels are within specs.

The clean-air paraphernalia may be removed and discarded,



Am not understanding the question regarding crankcase breather.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

trippmann wrote: ... also checked my float levels dry "i know wet is better" they were all pretty much the same but i tweaked them to 23.5 mm "from float bowl gasket to the top of the float when the carbs were upside down"...i still have the issue of the bike dying when it gets any throttle... should i plug the big vacuum tube that goes from the valve covers to the airbox? what about the crank cake breather on the bottom?

The upside-down-dry-measured float height setting is notoriously unreliable, can do more harm than good, and may produce incorrect fuel levels. It's necessary to perform the clear-tube test in order to assure that fuel levels are within specs.

The clean-air paraphernalia may be removed and discarded,

Am not understanding the question regarding crankcase breather.

Good Fortune!

crank case breather would be the port under the airbox.

anyway, i was messing around and my hand got stuck to the carb intake and it ran better. so i used my arm to partially cover all of the carbs and boom i had throttle!

still have issues however. with the airbox and filter installed i have to manually cover the top of the airfilter cover partially to allow the bike to run. Even with the idle adjustment screw all the way out it wants to idle at like 4k rpm.

im thinking air leak/too small of a pilot jet? i found that boiling the airbox boots before installation made life so easy to install them so removing them again shouldnt be an issue lol.

opinions appreciated! thanks guys!

trippmann wrote: ... Even with the idle adjustment screw all the way out it wants to idle at like 4k rpm....

Turning a side-located pilot screw out counter-clockwise is allowing more air into the pilot mixture which is leaning the mixture and may explain why manually choking by restricting air intake is helping to compensate for the otherwise excessively lean condition that's resulting from the incorrect pilot screw setting.

Would screw the pilot screws in clockwise until lightly seated, then turn each one of them out 1.5 turns, and see what happens.

Here's an example of a "side-located" pilot screw.





Good Fortune!

i have screws at 1 turn out as of now. problem is still there.

ill try screwing them all the way in and see if that helps.

i may have an air leak from the carb boots on the airbox side. ill try and work on it tomorrow or monday.

thanks guys!

food for thought, i have the carb vac port capped off and am using an aux bottle for the fuel supply.