TOPIC:

I have a 77' KZ1000A that i'm trying to remove the carburetors from the Holding Plate. I removed the 8 screws that hold the carbs. to the plate and even the throttle spring, but the holding plate won't swing out far enough to the allow the carburetors to be removed??? What am I missing or need to do to disassemble these carbs. from the plate? I removed one the starter plungers from one of the carbs. but that didn't do anything?

Also, Is there someone on the forum that your able to send the carb. assembly too that goes thru them and preps them ready for re-assembly if I decide not to rebuild the carbs. myself?

There are members that can/do rebuild carbs. Its not really rockect science, and there are likely a billion threads here detialing the process.

You will need to remove the four top caps, and then remove the 4 bolts connecting the slides to the shaft. Also the 5th one that holds the throttle cable pulley. There is a Phillips head screw just behind Carb #1 from the side that holds a prong that locates the "axle", remove these. Carefully dig out the rubber caps on Carb 1&4 with your thumbnail, and you should now be able to push the axle out. Be careful to keeps the pieces with their respective Carb. Once the axle is out, they can easily be removed from the plate. Note that the choke linkage is still keeping the 4 carbs together.

General outline of the procedure I follow.

-acquire new gaskets, a variety of NEW jets, and new needle valves(and any parts determined to be damaged during initial inspection)
- Google "homemade soda blaster", make one, and blast the rack while assembled(stuff paper towels in throats)
- disassemble entire rack including individual carbs, and blow all passages with compressed air
-soak Carb bodies in a one gallon Carb cleaner solution(available at most auto parts stores) then rinse.
-find member "PATTON"s guide for cleaning the pilot circuit, and follow it
- reassmble the rack, and use a paper clip as a feeler gauge to "bench sync" the slides.
-set the float heights using the clear tube method( I like to let it sit for 15 minutes or so just to be sure they aren't seeping slowly).
- take a rough guess at jetting, and assemble( save your new bowl gasket till your happy with the running)
- get it running good, then using a rack of vac guages sync the carbs.

If you had all the stuff, this could be done in a day, except maybe the tuning and sync part.

Don't be shy to tell me if I have something backwards or wrong here, this is just what works for me.

Thank you Tomolu5. Got it !!! Now for the inspection and replacement of parts needed. Have one the carb. bodies soaking in carb. cleaner now. Removed all jets, adjustment screws, and float before dipping in carb. bath. Wasn't sure if it would damage any rubber or plastic parts?

Yes...only metal in the bath

I looked at the float needle and couldn't see or feel any rubber o-ring, so I threw it into the basket that sits in the carb. bath. Hopefully Z1 Enterprises has all the carb. part replacements. I did notice that the rubber o-rings on the starter plungers have deteriorated. Are they available?

They should be. Fwiw, I feel the rebuild kits are a waste. I do recommend calling them, as you can normally get some solid advice.

I never have ordered thru Partzilla.com but heard they are a source of "genuine" Kawasaki parts. Looks like those starter plunger caps are still available thru Kawasaki?

How are the rebuild kits thru K & L ? Anyone tried them?

I've used the k&l kits...not worth the $$$$, the only parts that fit my carbs were the bowl gasket and the needle valves. The quality of the kits was top notch, it was just that most of the parts didn't fit. This was on a set of vm28 pumpers.

You could get a nice assortment of jets with the money saved. Z1 enterprises has always had all the stuff I needed, but wherever you buy the stuff, you want to get as much as possible in one order. (There's not much I hate more than being charged $7 to ship four main jets!!)

Kinda repeating what Tomolu5 said. K&L parts are made in Japan & very good quality --- the parts I've gotten were as good as oem. The kits can be a waste of money because they have extra stuff to cover a range of model years & you're paying for those extra parts.

Z1Enterprises.com sells individual o-rings. Alternatively in some cases, a metric nitrile or viton o-ring kit may have some of the needed sizes. The fit may or may not be perfect, but in some cases close is good enough (eg, drain screw o-ring or main-jet/bleeder-pipe o-ring).
The kit I got from HF has been very handy.

Harbor Freight does have a metric 225 count assorted nitrile kit and 180 count assorted Viton kit, so you would nave a "a lot" left over you would probably never use. But an option though?

The HF nitrile kit I got has paid for itself.
3-4 carb o-ring sizes. 1-2 fork sizes. 2 fuel tank sizes (petcock & low fuel switch).
And other stuff not related to the motorcycle.