TOPIC:

The Kawasaki plugs are aluminum with O-rings, thus the higher cost, the Suzukis are rubber, both will work fine. Typical Kawasaki dealer price extreme markup

This is some great information. Thank guys.

well I put the plugs in and is isnt getting no gas at all. wouldnt start unless I have the choke all the way open. And at that it didnt run well at all lol. plugs are coming back out.

The OEM carbs for your year/ model llist the plugs. Now it is possible that the carbs are not the correct set for your year. Can you see the passage between the main jet and pilot jet wells? Easy to see with the bowl off of 1 or 4 and a mirror, with pilot plug removed.

garyprather wrote: well I put the plugs in and is isnt getting no gas at all. wouldnt start unless I have the choke all the way open. And at that it didnt run well at all lol. plugs are coming back out.

Am thinking the tiny passage is blocked that's supposed to supply fuel from the main to the pilot circuit.

Carbs won't perform correctly without the plugs.





Good Fortune!

Following up here I took the carb holders off and put some gas resistant sealer around where they seal on the intake and the bike would not start lol. Its running so rich that it wants to stall when I give to much gas. really sluggish then wants to go. Maybe now I should install those plugs. In order to get the bike to run right now i have to have my screws in all the way. I hope the plugs fix this issue. I looked down inside the pilot jet barrel and main barrel I did not see any hole that the fuel would be transferred from the main to the pilot. I guess I will see. Patton my bike is a 1983 are those holes there???

I had a GS1100 that wouldnt run because the air hole was plugged up. If you block the pilot jet hole with one finger and the hole where the fuel comes out in the carb with the other and spray carb cleaner in the air holes it should come out the idle mixture screw hole unless its plugged. I dont think you can see the hole. I had to saw an old carb in half to find it actually existed. I fished a piece of guitar string each way to clean it out. Whether its there on your year KZ or not I dont know. Its there on 83 Suzuki GS1100s though. I had the carbs & airbox off 9 times before I figured that out so good luck

garyprather wrote: ...bike is a 1983 are those holes there???

The diagram at kawasaki.com shows the plugs and o'rings, which would indicate that the pilot circuit likely receives fuel via the tiny passage from the main circuit.



Good Fortune!

I must have some other type of BS34, because I pulled out the main and pilot and there is no hole. I inspected it for awhile thinking I was just not seeing it. I ran cleaner through there and nothing comes out the adjustment holes. I see on the needle jet where the hole should be but nothing is there. I dropped back to the stock mains that came in a bag when I bout the bike which were 120s and 37.5 pilots. I went back to 40 pilots and going to put in 140 mains. The bike breaks up bad when WOT. Low end is great. Better than when I bought the bike. Hard to believe that someone would have jetted the bike with that bad of vacuum leaks.

You may have a different version of the carb that does not require the plug. there were definitely some around.

Below is my setup and I am still tweaking the needle setting. Once I feel close I will take to a dyno to check. You may find the mains are too big at 140. However if you stick with the stock needle, the needle may in fact block the main enough that you wont get WOT stutter.

Make sure you make one change at a time, that is put in 140 and if it is too rich only change the main without changing anything else until you get to the right one. Also use vacuum gauges and sync the carbs. it will save you a lot of grief.

air filters K&N RU-0984
Pilots 40 2 turns out (this has been well established on other threads and works for me as well)
Mains 135 about right (started at 140 way rich, then dropped 137.5)
Needles 5ix11

Added a pdf below that compares several needles used in the 1100 and 1000 carbs. it basically shows how rich they are at different positions on the needle

The 140 were put in which cured the top end stutter. It pulls hard. I think I have to adjust my needles down a bit not sure yet. Symptom is from a dead stop or rolling really slow in first gear from idle to WOT it bogs down then gradually picks up speed. When I say gradually i mean within 10 foot its really going but it does bog when I hit the throttle hard from a stop. BTW my screws are 1 turn out. I just synced the carbs thinking that may have been the problem but was not.

I have to say that my battle is over. I have the bike running like a champ 140 mains 42.5 pilots screws about 1.5 turns out. Carbs synced. Plugs look perfect. Great acceleration and no more hesitation. I even went for a nice ride today with my brothers in which my oldest brother just bought a 02 1200 sportster with a stage 2 kit. Boy that thing is slow. Anyways thanks for the help everyone.