is a 1980 Fuel-Injected kz1000 -- DANGEROUS?

I've got a 1980 kz1000 that came stock with fuel injection -- it's not running.

Will any of my 'how to rebuild carbs' knowledge work on this bike?

Did this bike, with its fuel injection, have a computer?


Can I do something wrong that would be dangerous (start a fire, explode, or when I'm out on the road, something bad like 'sudden acceleration' or something)?

Or is the fuel injection on this 1980 kz1000, which was the first model KZ that came with fuel injection -- is it a primitive mechanical-only fuel injection with no computer/electronics to it?

She's not run for 10 years and I will need to open up the F.I. to clean (like I've done to carbs that have sat for that long)

What you've probably got is a Kz1000 "G" model similar to a 1981 GPz1100 B1 model.The throttle sensor on this bike and the 1981 GPz1100 is inside an air box, so be careful of the electrical connections as they can be fragile and break.

The fuel pressure to run this engine is about 33 PSI at idle, going up to 35 PSI when the throttle is opened.

I'd suggest replacing all of the FI high pressure hoses with the type rated for FI not carbs.Since the bike has FI, standard carb cleaning will not work.

Fairly recently, some one here changed from FI to carbs on a "G" model like yours, you'll have to do some digging to find the thread.

I use the hose clamps rated for FI available at Pep Boys or other auto parts stores.

To troubleshoot the FI system, get a factory shop manual. The places I use are:
1. www.repairmanual.com
2. www.manualsnmore.com
3.E-Bay

To answer your questions further, Yes the computer is under the seat(more toward the tail of the bike).

The fuel pump is beneath/in front of the battery with the main fuel pump relay usually under the left side cover below the seat.

The fuel tank has a return valve on it's right bottom connected to the fuel pressure regulator. Vacuum lines going from the carb holders control fuel pressure.

This is a factory shop manual on the 1981-1982 GPz's that should apply most of the information to your "G" model:
www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99

Okay thanks guys, especially for the fsm, I just downloaded it, I needed that one, thanks for that link.

The bike has 28k miles so I'm going to do a tuneup on her starting with the valve adjustment. Its easy to do on these bikes, I already have my valve shim tool from my other kz1000 bike valve adjust. Then I'm going to assume the injectors need cleaning after setting so long.

I've read several threads on the board here already about the FI, for someone like me who is not a pro mechanic but I've had nothing but success cleaning carbs to get a bike going -- how much time should I allow to yank the FI injectors and clean them?

To clean the injectors, you will have to apply 3 volts to the connections. To prevent damage to the injector coils, I use a self powered test light while applying pressure to the fuel port.

Contact these people for injector sevicing:
www.witchhunter.com
www.injectorrx.com/services.html
www.injector-rehab.com/

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

Okay thanks guys, especially for the fsm, I just downloaded it, I needed that one, thanks for that link.

The bike has 28k miles so I'm going to do a tuneup on her starting with the valve adjustment. Its easy to do on these bikes, I already have my valve shim tool from my other kz1000 bike valve adjust. Then I'm going to assume the injectors need cleaning after setting so long.

I've read several threads on the board here already about the FI, for someone like me who is not a pro mechanic but I've had nothing but success cleaning carbs to get a bike going -- how much time should I allow to yank the FI injectors and clean them?

Actually, the manual(s) you need are the following:

KZ1000 Motorcycle Service Manual: Kawasaki part number 99924-1006-05

and

KZ1000 Classic Motorcycle Service Manual Supplement: Kawasaki part number 99963-0035-01

The KZ1000/KZ1100 manual you downloaded is for the J-series 998cc motored bikes. Your Classic is a pre-J bike and is based on the earlier 1015cc bikes. The base manual is the first of the two I listed above and while it does have the information for the related 'H' model (aka the FI model released in Europe), the strictly North American model (the 'G' model, aka the Z1 Classic)) is not covered. Information specific to that model is contained in the second listed manual.

I pulled the spark plugs today to size up the running condition of the engine the last time it was run (5 years ago).

The owner told me it was sputtering a lot for his final ride on the bike back then.

The plugs when I pulled them today: BLACK WITH SOOT. During his final ride, the plugs were fouling with too much gas.

Not oily. Black with partly burned fuel.

Could a weak battery have caused this? Reason I ask is he said that the battery was giving some trouble back then. He said on the final ride, the bike would run okay a bit but also sputter.

Then he drove it back home and let it sit for an hour or so. Then he tried to start it up and the starter motor wouldn't fire the bike, WEAK BATTERY.

I'm thinking that the battery being low explains why these spark plugs are thick with black soot.

Could the weak battery explain the plugs and sputtering?

The ignition coils when new were marginal, add some years,heat and vibration, and now they've become even more suspect.

If it were me, I'd get new sparkplug wires, caps and ignition coils. www.z1enterprises.com can supply you with all new ignition parts. Dyna green 3 ohm coils will supply a strong spark.

Checked the ignition mechanical advancer? it's behind a CD sized cover on the right side of the engine. It must move freely when twisted with the engine off to retard and advance the ignition system.

I use a light lubrication like 3-in-one or sewing machine oil on the moving parts.

Also check the input voltage to the coils by disconnecting the fuel pump(to prevent spraying gas when the ignition switch is turned on) and using a meter, check the RED wires going to the coils.The black meter probe will be either on the Negative battery terminal or a good frame ground.

It should read the same as battery voltage, if not, get some electronic cotact cleaner and spray the run/stop switch and the start switch inside the right handlebar switch pod.



Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the “On” position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.

Stumped as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some “De-oxit” from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store. www.deoxit.com is their website.