TOPIC:

Hey Steve.

While checking the clearance I noticed I still have a little bit of a tight spot turning the crank. I'm gonna start a new thread on it.

I had a bit of one too. I put it together and hoped for the best. So far, so good.
Steve

I remember you said that, but I'm still a little paranoid after all the time and money. And it's not enough so you could feel it with the engine assembled with the drag from the trans and valvetrain. Although you could remove the advance cover and pull in and out on the crank from there. Endplay should go in and out fairly easily in all positions. Right now mine doesn't in the tight positions. Bet yours was similar.

Speaking of tight, considering the APE cylinder stud shafts are noticeably larger in diameter than stock, I opted to drill-out the outer four tapered stud/oil passages, to minimize the potential for oil restriction.

daveo wrote: Speaking of tight, considering the APE cylinder stud shafts are noticeably larger in diameter than stock, I opted to drill-out the outer four tapered stud/oil passages, to minimize the potential for oil restriction.

Yep, I'm gonna do the same thing. I think the hole in the base gasket is about the same ID as the block holes. So making them bigger won't make much difference. But the stud holes in the head are about 1mm smaller. So that should be more help making it almost 12mm across the board.

It was at every third revolution. It was worse until I filed out the middle punch marks. Very slight. Jeff said the roller bearings are more forgiving. I think the heat cycles corrected it.
Steve

That's what I'm hoping for. Maybe the aluminum case settled after sitting for a long period of time split, and the crank will straighten it out after some hot/cold, expansion/contraction.

They should be stored bolted together but rarely are.
Steve

Yep. But not many are aware. Found sellers on eBay selling upper, lower and main caps seperately.

Yeah they don't care if it will work or not. All they want is $$$$.
Steve

daveo wrote: Speaking of tight, considering the APE cylinder stud shafts are noticeably larger in diameter than stock, I opted to drill-out the outer four tapered stud/oil passages, to minimize the potential for oil restriction.

I may be a little obsessed, but I posted the reduced oil flow question on a physics forum. The oversized studs restrict oil flow to the top end by 50%. But that's at the head stud holes which are 1mm smaller I'D than the block holes. So drilling the head out to 11.8mm from 10.8mm you would think bring oil flow back to OEM. The issue is the step-down in flow from the block to head would be lost. And I was told that will effect flow also.

The risk I'm worried about is over-compensating flow to the cams will reduce flow to the crank and trans bearings.

The lower end gets the oil first and as you can tell by the small gallys, the flow is restricted somewhat. I doubt that would be a issue. I'd think more oil flow to the head would help cooling more too.
Steve