TOPIC:

How can I tell if my 77A1 kz1000 engine has an 1170 kit installed? When i bought the bike, the P0 said, "i got it from a guy who said he put in the wiseco kit".

To set clearances and jets, i figure i need to know if a kit has been installed. Plus, i just want to know.

I am tracking down dry black plugs that foul in less than 100 miles.

Here is what i have done:

Compression ranges from 208 to 235 (cold engine). The two in the center are the lowest. I know these numbers have too much variance for specs but i dont think this is causing my issue. The fact that they are higher than spec may indicate some aftermarket kit?

Leakdown tests are okay. All cylinders in the green zone.

I have only checked clearances on 3 valves. One was between .002 and .004 (inches). The others are too large (.008 and .011). Are clearance specs the same as factory if an aftermarket kit is installed?

My plan now is to
1. Check the cam timing and adjust valve clearances.
2. Recheck my float levels.
3. Re jet if necessary.

Thanks




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I think the only way to be sure is to take the head off and measure the bores.

I may need to take the head off anyway to stop an oil leak that seems to be coming from the head gasket. I wanted to do that last, however, after i am sure i can solve the rough running and plug fouling situation.


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Whether 1089 or 1165cc is of little importance when carb jetting.

Retourquing the head cold would be a good start for the oii leaks.

That compression seems really high, was it a 'wet' test?

Tyrell Corp wrote: Whether 1089 or 1165cc is of little importance when carb jetting.

Retourquing the head cold would be a good start for the oii leaks.

That compression seems really high, was it a 'wet' test?

Cold and no oil squirted in, my 1075cc 10.25:1 kit was around 175psi when new, almost 6000 miles ago.

b Do you know anyone with a borescope ? or buy a cheap USB borescope, {under $20} then have a look through the spark plug hole, you should be able to screen shot the piston top and have it identified here....

Wiseco pistons have markings on the top, unless it is covered in carbon. Deeper valve pockets / more compression dome might be a clue too.

I'd think that your cams, carbs, pipe, airbox or pods will make a bigger difference to your carb jetting than the increased cc's.

Here are the complete set of compression readings i did (psi):

Cold Engine Cold engine after squirting oil in cylinders
1 235 260
2 220 240
3 208 230
4 230 240

Cold Engine Cold engine after squirting oil in cyliners
1 235 (cold/dry) 260 (cold/wet)
2 220 (cold/dry) 240 (cold/wet)
3 208 (cold/dry) 230 (cold/wet)
4 230 (cold/dry) 240 (cold/wet)

Compression will ALWAYS go up if oil is added to cylinders; even in a brand new, perfect engine. See link below for reason. Ed

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/603190-kz...ild-questions#734187

Wow. That seems a bit high for an air cooled engine on the street.
I wonder if it has stock camshafts?
I'd be careful with that one in the summer on warm days.
Watch the fuel mixture and ignition timing.
Detonation is incideous.

Compression test pressure is way too high, unless it is running very mild cams with very high compression ratio pistons.

How can you tell what size of engine you have? - you could do a "pump" test (measures cylinder volume on one cylinder)....for the home mechanic, this is quite easy to do, but cleaning up afterward takes a bit of time and effort.

1. Remove #1 spark plug and bring piston 1 up to exactly TDC on the compression / power stroke (valves closed). Set up a good steady light source directing light into the spark plug hole so you can see the piston top.

2. Carefully fill the cylinder up to the bottom (not top!) of the spark plug hole with a light weight oil like kerosene or diesel fuel (best) or solvent (second best). This only takes about 2 tablespoons of oil. Don't spill any oil over the top of the head.

3. Precisely fill an accurate graduated measuring cup or similar measuring vessel (I robbed the science lab at school of a 500mL beaker) with oil or solvent to at least the 300 mL mark.

4. Rotate the crank precisely 180 deg. (use the TDC mark for cylinders 2 &3) so the piston is now at BDC and very carefully fill the cylinder just up to the same level as it was in step 2, without spilling any. Look at how much liquid is left in the measuring container and subtract that from the amount it started with, and you have the displacement of 1 cylinder ( 1 mL = 1 cc ).

5. Multiply by 4 and you know what displacement you have.

6. Now clean up and get rid of the oil - you might try sucking it out with a wet / dry shop vac. as you slowly turn the crankshaft bringing no. 1 piston back up to TDC, or you could extract it with a small diameter length of vacuum hose and try to syphon it out.

Avoid just using the piston to pump it out using rags to wipe up the mess, or you will get a lot of oil in the ports and the engine will smoke like crazy when started...

Don't put the spark plug back in until you are absolutely sure the oil is out, or you could hydraulic lock the engine and do some pretty serious damage....