TOPIC:

Sucking the oil out the top will never be as effective as draining it properly from the bottom. The dirt and crap is in the bottom of the "pan", and will still be in there if you pump it out from the top. Draining the oil out the bottom of the engine takes at least some of the crud out with the oil (on really high mileage engines, it is also advisable to remove and clean the "pan" and oil pump pick up screen every so often).

I'm going to guess the drain plug is already butchered and rounded, and you don't want to park the bike in case the plug or pan breaks if you try to remove it. In that case, this is what I would try....

Buy a spare used oil pan and plug (not another chewed up / rounded one!), and get a new gasket to have on hand first - just in case. If your bike is an older "Z1" style KZ1000 or a later KZ1000 / 1100 "J" model type engine (I don't know about the smaller bikes, but this could be true for them, also), the "oil pan" (oil sump cover) is one of the least expensive engine parts you can buy used from evil-bay - if you look hard enough. Be sure to get the drain plug with it. I just picked up a few nice clean spare "oil pans" for less than $10 each, as I want to modify a few for use with racing engines.

Carefully file two big, straight, and wide flats opposite to each other on what ever is left of the old plug with a grinder or file. This can take some time and is tedious, but if you don't want to change the pan, you will have to try to get the old plug out. The nicer you cut the flats, the better your chances of getting the plug out. Get the biggest adjustable wrench (so called "crescent wrench") that you can get in there. Heat the plug (not the aluminum pan - that wouldn't be very effective with the oil still in there) with a propane torch until it is hot (about two minutes) if you can, but don't take a chance if there is oil and grease on the bottom of the engine, or if you are trying to save the paint. Then give the plug a few moderate raps directly on the head of the plug with a medium sized ball peen hammer (even if you didn't use a torch on it) and have a go at turning the drain plug out. If it doesn't break free, re- heat and / or hammer, and try again. If the plug starts to turn, but is tight and takes effort to keep turning, stop and spray with penetrating oil, then keep turning while moderately hot - hopefully the threads aren't buggered up! Drain the oil and put in a new / good used drain plug.

I would not, EVER, drill through / out the old plug and risk steel shavings getting into the engine....very BADDDDDD!

Fox wrote: Hello

The drain screw of the engine oil is impossible to turn.
I'm afraid to break the crankcase or the screw...

I decide to buy an electric oil extractor to do the job.

I place the tube on the engine from the left side of the hole, but no oil is coming...
I know there is oil inside btw.

If someone have any idea, or ever do this job, he will be welcome

I actually used to do this because my old headers completely blocked the drain plug. I would drop the drain tube down past the clutch basket through the oil filler hole. I could get almost all the oil out.

I would try squirting some Kroil on the edge of the bolt's head and see if it will migrate up.

650ed wrote: Also, use a 6-sided socket rather than a 12-sided one. That will reduce the chance of rounding the drain plug. Ed

+1 And maybe tap the end of the wrench with a small hammer instead of twisting it. Tapping usually shears a seized bolt loose better than twisting.

missionkz wrote: Try this:
On a hot engine, use freeze spray from MCM Electronics (might be able to find a similar product locally, like Radio Shack).
Super chill JUST the drain plug

I think some flux stripper spray is Freon type stuff. Would chill the boards so much water would condense when we used it.

Kray-Z wrote: Sucking the oil out the top will never be as effective as draining it properly from the bottom.!

True. I measured it once and found that it left about 1/3 quart in the engine. I could get that by taking off the filter and pumping it clear using the kick start. Major PITA, draining is so much easier.

Dry ice will also work to super-chill the plug.
And a pipe-wrench may adequately grip the rounded-off plug.
If the female case hole treads are damaged, an oversize plug may be an option.
Good Fortune!

Hello,

a lot of goods ideas in this topic !
I willl try it soon, to heat the motor and cold the screw.
Btw, tor the moment the motorcycle don't start, so i 'm open a new topic and will be back here soon.

Thank you

A special THANKS ! to missionkz for is idea and nessessim for : " I've yet to find a drain bolt that couldn't be turned out with a long handled wrench"

- I heat the motor by driving 5 mins
- I use freeze spray
- I use a long handled wrench
- I made a pray

Done!

Thank you,
Fox

Good for you.
Steve