TOPIC:

I was just at the garage today, taking off the valve cover to see how the cam chain looked like (Kawasaki Z500 B3 -81).
There have been some noises before, (ticking noises as well as something sounding like a rattling chain).

Ticking noises, according to the workshop manual I got, could be cam shaft endfloats, so I am waiting for a dialgauge to arrive to I can measure the endplay on the camshafts.

I pressed down on the cam chain, and I seem to have a play at around 1 or maybe 2 cm. (I did not measure the distance, but it looked like it was too much anyway, especially since when pushing the chain back up again, it was almost as if it wanted to come off from its sprocket).
Just by the eye, the chain looks in good condition though.

I then took out the tensioner to have a look at it, but I am not really sure how how to make sure it is working or not.
Should I be able to push the rod in and out? Because it seemed stuck.

So the question is, where do I start?
I have to run on a low budget, so should I start with looking to replace/repair the tensioner?
Get new guides? A new chain or must I get all of it?
I have been looking at ebay, but it seems hard to find these parts for a Kawasaki Z500 B model.
Does anyone of you know if there's any of these things I can source from another model of the bike?
If so, any suggestions of which ones?

Where are you located?

Mcdroid wrote: Where are you located?

Stockholm, Sweden

If the 500 is like the 550, I believe you are supposed to take the cam chain tensioner out to remove the valve cover; and there is supposed to be slack in the chain between the camshafts, there is a guide/slipper in the valve cover.

One of our members here has a link to a kz550 manual, like i said, not 100% sure how much carries over though

You need a MANUAL. Don't put the adjuster back on until the valve cover is on. The adjuster is automatic.
Steve

swest wrote: You need a MANUAL. Don't put the adjuster back on until the valve cover is on. The adjuster is automatic.
Steve

Thanks, but, as I wrote, third line "Ticking noises, according to the workshop manual I got,", - I DO have a manual.
(To be even more clear, It's a Haynes manual, so, I do think I am covered on that part).
Still I am looking for others opinions and advises.

The factory service manual details how to measure chain and tensioner wear. To measure is to know, everything else is a guess. Unless the engine has run big miles these parts are likely to be okay.

As mentioned by the others, the valve cover has a rub block so it's normal to have some chain slack if you remove the cover.

Before installing the valve cover I like to remove the tensioners spring plunger. This allows the tensioner to spring out but also go back in if you pull the chain tight. Get the valve cover installed and then install the plunger which keeps the tensioner from moving back when in use.

floivanus wrote: If the 500 is like the 550, I believe you are supposed to take the cam chain tensioner out to remove the valve cover; and there is supposed to be slack in the chain between the camshafts, there is a guide/slipper in the valve cover.

One of our members here has a link to a kz550 manual, like i said, not 100% sure how much carries over though

Thank you!
Yeah, the valve cover and the tensioner will both stay off until I figure out if I need a complete new tensioner or just new parts.
I have been looking in the manual, but either it doesn't explain in a way that I fully understand, or I am just dumb. - How do I check wether it's worn or not (it does say change spring if in doubt, but is it really only the spring? Or anything more? Iv'e seen rebuild kits with spring and pushrod).

The fact that there should be some slack in the chain, I am aware off. I mean, a snug chain isn't really good in any machine, question is, how much slack is ok, and when does it slack enough to know that "something is really wrong here? - I didn't find anything about that in the manual, but I prefer second opinions than just completely trusting the manual.

The cam chain then, here I am asking more, is there any way to check the condition of the chain without having to take it off and measure like the manual says? I prefer not having to go through timings, but if there's no other option, I'll simply just do it.

So all in all, I am asking for opinions and suggestions from those of you that have made an overhaul to their engines before.
This is my first time on a 4-stroke, and judging from the fact that I find it fun (I recently took up on this interest, have been tinkering for about 2 years and ridden for 4, determined to do all I can do myself rather than having a workshop do it for me and crying on the way home after picking my bike up when I realize I am almost (if not completely) bankrupt.

Nessism wrote: everything else is a guess. Unless the engine has run big miles these parts are likely to be okay.

The engine has been on the road for about 70000 km (~43500 miles).
Previous owner(s) has lost the service book, so I am assuming that none or very little service has been made on the bike.
If my economy was even just slightly better, I wouldn't have hesitated to get a new cam chain, guides and a tension rebuild kit all at once.

You should not need to take off cam chain to measure. If your Haynes manual is the same as the one I have for my 750 then look to chapter 1: engine clutch gearbox and look at the all specs listed in the first few pages. Pistons valves etc. In the section "camshafts" there should be a service limit for the cam chain measured between 20 pins. You should be able to do this with cam chain on sprockets. If by chance you do need to take off sprockets then it's not a big deal

If measurement is good then on to the next thing

JR wrote: You should not need to take out cam chain to measure. If your Haynes manual is the same as the one I have for my 750 then look to chapter 1: engine clutch gearbox and look at the all specs listed in the first few pages. Pistons valves etc. In the section "camshafts" there should be a service limit for the cam chain measured between 20 pins. You should be able to do this with caching on sprockets.

If measurement is good then on to the next thing

Yeah, I have that too, I just wasn't sure if I needed to detach the chain or if I could jut measure between the sprockets.
That's perfect then.
Just, one question of of curiosity...
How can the length between 20 links change? I mean, how can the chain get shorter or longer without adding or removing links?
I would have understood if it was thickness of the chain, but the length?

Chains can stretch just like a drive chain does until it need replacement. Older motorcycles have a cam chain that looks like a bicycle chain . The cam chain on my 1980 750 is a HyVo type chain with several plates between the pins and these dont seem to stretch. I made a quick measurement on mine a few years ago and it was well within the limit. I have 80,00 00 km on my bike.

What type c am chain on your Z ?