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Bozo wrote: Daveo, you are right, I have noticed that slightly thrashed Z's seem to last and go better.

My three brothers rod early Z9's and they experienced the same thing, the engines love hard use. My other friends that rode their bikes "easy" ended up with slow engines, worse economy etc.

Still (slightly) thrashing since September of 2000...fifteen years since the Vetter came off, and the bike got it's balance back.
Now it thrashes me without mercy, but I keep coming back for more.

The crank has been removed and as you can see the two centre webs are way out from each other

I now have the Z900 crank in, the crank has not been welded but it has been checked / trued. The mechanics around Perth suggested to leave the crank unwelded for street use.

Wow.
Steve

That bites.
I've never heard someone recommend not welding a crank. Did the give a reason? Considering what happened to the old one and that the engine is already apart, I'd be really tempted to weld the crank and probably everything else in there!

Is the old crank too damaged index, true and weld?

I would imagine the bearings would be shot.
Steve

Id send the stock crank to pearson to have it straightened and welded. The 900 cranks are nice if you like doing wheelies,but they tend to buzz your hands more than a 1000 crank because of the lighter counterweights.

Amazing but the bearings on the twisted crank are excellent, it can be trued (with a bit of work) and because of this twist I'll have no choice to weld the bugger. I won't name the people but both are / drag racers and both suggest leaving the Z900 crank as is. Could be that both don't have the confidence to weld the pins in tight spots, in that case I would prefer it wasn't welded.
I will fix the Z1r crank eventually, as PLUMMEN stated it might buzz a bit whereas the Z1R was very smooth

That one rod looks bent. V/H welded mine, it's only about a 3/4" weld in the tight spots.
Steve

Swest, if you are referring to my crank rod being bent, no they are straight, apart from the twist nothing got hit, amazingly the valves "just" cleared the pistons (these have also been checked). I would like to weld but if no-one in Western Australia is willing to risk it what can I do.

Maybe some-one in Australia can recommend a welder, I'm sure I could align the crank.

Packing it up and sending it to gardner or falicon would probably be kinda pricey from your location,Can you get your hands on a good used 77-78 1000 crank where youre at?

All you really would need is a couple V blocks a big brass hammer and a dial indicator, true it all up and have it welded.

Heliarc (TIG) with no filler half way or so around the pins.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong

Heating and truing it can be done, I wouldn't try it. A 1- 3/4" tack is all that's needed.
Steve