TOPIC:

Is that a no ?



Thanks for the help, I need it.

R

Ed

Not only do I not use a sealant, I actually use antiseize. This makes the gasket come off like new every time... no more scraping. But before that, I clean the surfaces to a near polish. The only place I've had maybe a drop of oil leak was at the end plugs. I usually don't put sealer there either, but it may need it in some cases.

The smaller inline fours had the advantage of having a bolt go through the end plug. The older big motors don't, and suffer more problems there.

A heat gun helps when removing baked on gaskets. If it's Permatex, all bets are off.
Steve

Ok, so the cam cover gasket and plugs are on, no leaks. Timing gap and dynamic test good. Advance is working as it should. Compression was 120-130 psi across the bank, although I am not sure I had the bike warmed sufficiently. Manual says that's low. The bike does not smoke anywhere. Valve clearance good. I went for about a 20 min ride and it was improved, but still cutting power over 5k RPM. I could tell from the sound that it is coming from the right side exhaust. Some, popping, missing very evident. When I got back and put on the centerstand, carb #3 started gushing gas, about a 1/3 cup all together. I am guessing stuck/gunked up float valve in carb #3, and I bet it is bogging rich that is the source of my problem. What say ye?

If that carb is in an overflow condition while you are riding it will almost certainly cause misfiring.

Regarding the carb overflow -

Fuel coming out of the overflow hose (the little hose on the bottom of the carb) is the common symptom of the 3 possible problems described below. Remember - NO SMOKING or other activities that could ignite the fuel while working on carbs!

The float valve is not sealing. This may be (and probably is) just a matter of some minor dirt in the float valve and is very simple to remedy and can be done with the carbs still on the bike. Turn off fuel; drain carb by loosening big brass screw near bottom; and remove the 4 little screws on the bottom of the carb bowl. This will enable you to remove the carb bowl. You will then see the float. If you carefully remove the float you will see a stubby little needle that mates with a brass orifice; together, these two pieces are the float valve. Assuming there is no obvious damage to the needle or seat, use a Q-tip and some carb cleaner to clean the seat of the orifice and the needle. Be careful not to bend the tang that is attached to the float. This tang is the piece that the bottom of the float valve needle rests upon, and it determines the fuel level in the bowl, so bending it will change the fuel level. With the float valve cleaned it should no longer leak. To prevent a re-occurrence a quality inline fuel filter should be installed between the fuel tank and carbs. If there was damage the needle and seat should be replaced as a set; they are available.

The brass overflow tube inside the carb bowl is damaged. When you remove the carb bowl you will see a brass tube attached inside and rising toward the top of the bowl. This is the overflow tube and it leads directly to the overflow nipple on the bottom of the carb. Normally, the fuel level within the bowl rises somewhat close to the top of this tube. If the tube becomes cracked or separates from the bottom of the carb bowl fuel will flow through it and out through the overflow hose. Checking the condition of the tube is very easy after you have removed the carb bowl from the carb. Simply hold the bowl level and fill it up near the top of the tube with water or alcohol and see if it leaks. A slight crack in the brass overflow tube can be difficult to find. You can connect a rubber tube to the overflow nipple, fill the bowl with water, put finger over the open end of the brass overflow tube and blow in the rubber end and look for bubbles. If it does the best remedy is to replace it although some folks have found creative ways to repair them.

The fuel level is set too high. This condition occurs when someone has bent the float tang as mentioned above. This condition can be checked using what is referred to as the "clear tube test." The test involves attaching one end of a clear piece of flexible tubing to the carb drain hole and holding the other end of the tube above the bowl/carb joint. When the fuel is turned on it should rise in the tube to a level 2.5 - 4.5 mm below the bowl/carb joint. If the fuel rises higher than that level it may run into the cylinders or over the upper end of the brass overflow inside the carb bowl (mentioned above) in which case it will run out the overflow hose. This condition is corrected by removing the float and gently bending the tang to raise the float valve needle position. Doing this may take several tries before achieving the desired fuel level.

Correcting each of these three conditions involves removing the carb bowl. This task can be made easier if a short screwdriver bit is used, and depending on which carb you are fixing a mirror may help you locate the screws on the bottom of the carb bowl. Also, it is not a bad idea to have a new carb bowl gasket available in case the old gasket is damaged while removing the carb bowl. Ed

Can I realistically get to carb three by bowl removal only, or do the carbs have t come out? R

Well, I went to look at the float valve on carb three and found more than I bargained for. Every float valve seat, main and pilot jet in every carb was buggered up! I took the carbs off on the rail and started cleaning. 3 hours later and presto she runs right. Now a few more items before the deep clean and restore to original. The air box tubes were to stiff to properly install the carbs. They popped out and would not fit onto the carb mouth fully no matter how I tried. I assume new ones will be softer? Also I noticed a crack on the number four inlet carb holder. Will check prices. Also, here's something not to do on a KZ650. The previous owner sealed his air box inlets with electrical tape. It was a dissolving gooey mess and no doubt the source of my problem. Anyway could also use new cables all around too. Very happy. Now it is the bike that I remember - 60 comes quick and ripped way up.. power all gears no cutting out. This is gonna be one cool original one after it's cleaned up. Thanks to those with suggestions and aid you were helpful.

R

The new air box ducts will be quite soft and pliable. Ed

Well, headed on a ride this evening. Things are coming along well.
new oil
filter change
front brake fluid flushed
rear brake inspected
front and rear wheels inspected - bearings, seals and grease good.
throttle cables lubed and adjusted
cleaned and new grease on the throttle tube
carbs in and mounted correctly
chain/sprockets inspected, lubed
makeshift outer air box tubes out of 1 1/2 hose until my package arrives from Z1.

Impressions
A. It is running well. Starts easy (1 kick if kicked), idles right, power in all gears, runs right up to 100mph+
B. Handles better than I remember on my old 550. nimble, tracks straight and oves to dive into turns. Great ground clearance.
C. People remember and love these bikes, lots of comments and attention.
D. The old windjammer Kaw windshield offers good protection

More to do
A. Petcock (gravity) is leaking, will rebuild.
B. Pegs on the engine guard rattle a bit.
C. Every so often the first throttle blip will lower idle RPM, but it does not stall. Hoping the stock air box tube will cure this, or perhaps it is idle adjustment.
D. Fork oil seals weeping a bit.
E. Deep clean
F. Tank dent removal, glue should do well.
G. Pipes are bit loud and decayed for me. had to rivet the baffle abck in. Think 4-1 as long as I can keep the center stand.

Went about 80 miles, all was as it should be. Fun Fun Fun. A few pics.

R

Since the paint looks good I would contact a paintless-dent repair company and have them push that dent out. It shouldn't cost much at all and should look like new when they're done. I had that done to a BIG dent on my wife's old carn and was really happy with the results - and, like me, it was cheap. Glue might muck-up the paint job. Ed

Well changing fork oils was fun. I was able to break the Allen bolt on one fork. The second d was a bear. After gleaning the sire I found x Ed's homemade vacuum cap tool and gave that a try. Worked like a charm. New oil in.every thing back one. There was only about three ounces of oil in each fork. Very old, black and cruddy.straightened up the turn signals. I was thinking of flipping this since I got IG cheap, but it I growing on me. I think now I will put a new exhaust on it and drive it til it or I die. Having fun. Peace. R