TOPIC:

The compression sounds kinda low-maybe time for a rebuild.If you had a spare set of coils to test it with it might be worth a try.I've had similiar problems with a bad coil.Sort of an intermintent thing.The bad coil got hot to the touch.A cheap part like a condenser can be a problem too.
Good luck.

Your compression numbers and valve clearances are all typical of a good used motor. Nothing that would prevent the motor from running. I think I have said all I can say. Time to take it to someone that can do something about it. These are very simple engines that if you do not have enough knowledge (no disrespect intended), time to take it to any legitimate motorcycle shop and get them to service it. Over to you.....

Thanks for all of the replies.

Tripleted, I didn't take any disrespect with your comments. I have a guy that can rebuild the motor, but he if trying to find a machine shop, the one he used to deal with is out of business. While he is trying to find a machine shop, does anyone know of a reputable place that can rebuild the motor ?

Did you get it running? If it runs the compression could come back up.
Where are you located?
Steve

No disrespect taken. You probably still have a good motor that will run very well if you take the time to clean the carbs and change the point/condenser and very important to sync the carbs. These motors are very durable. If you decide to rebuild to rebuild the motor count on replacing the rings,head gskt, base gskt,cam chain,and maybe top end valve grind to a tune of $2000 after all is done. Post your progress of the bike. Thanks.

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STOP...

I really get upset when I read a post and the owner is pointing to engine rebuilding without fully understanding the cause of the problem. Several ideas have been mentioned here that do not require rebuilding an engine (I actually don't recall what engine you have), nevertheless it's your absolute right to go ahead and do whatever you believe will fix the problem.

In my experience a perfect factory crate engine (I only wish) will not guarantee a bike will run right. Compression in the perfect factory engine will most likely be "perfect" however spark and fuel need to be as close to perfect as well. Until you are certain everything else is functioning to factory spec (consult your Kawasaki Factory Service Manual), I do not suggest you have your engine rebuilt. please find a KZ Rider in your area to help you understand the problem.


... just my '79 cents.

BIGKEVIN
Where are you located ?

I to was going through the same problem. bike did not run right and #2 cylinder was colder then the others.
If your carbs have never been rebuilt..i suggest you do that first.
if it run before it was park then somthing is wrong with your carbs.
i have heard about the clutch sticking when bike sits for a while but it has never happen to me.
i took my 26mm apart and all of the o-ring's were hard and the one in the air pilot jet...2 were broken apart.

I'm not hearing about smoking, burning oil or other signs of a worn out motor. A lot of suggestions have been made here. Pull the plugs and lay the on the head connected touching a bolt, turn it over. Strong spark, move on. After that ask what next.
One thing at a time.
Steve

It's difficult for me to understand why anyone believes a motor needs to be rebuilt before identifying a specific problem. Ed

There plenty of people that will cheerfully rebuild a motor for not starting. Just like the local snake oil salesman that promises everything will be cured in one bottle. This forum is here to avoid that if possible. This thread has been going on for too long without some progress being made.
Steve

Patton, what could the possible causes be when the bike runs momentarily when using starting fluid into the air intakes but not otherwise? Carbs are clean and new jets so they couldn't be clogged.