TOPIC:

My '78 Z1R engine is oxidized and I'm trying the technique someone else on the board here recommened to remove the oxidation -- "Simple Green." Bought 3 spray bottles at Wal-Mart today, only $2.99 each, wow.

HERE'S THE RIGHT OF THE Z1R MOTOR TODAY *BEFORE* SIMPLE GREEN DOUSING:



THIS IS ABOUT 1 MINUTE AFTER SPRAYING LIBERALLY THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE MOTOR WITH SIMPLE GREEN -- LOOKS MUCH BETTER AFTER ONLY 1 MINUTE -- LOOK AT HOW THE FACTORY BLACK ENGINE PAINT LEAPS OUT NOW:

(the points breaker stuff is rusted junk, I have a brand new points breaker contacts ready for install, later.


LEFT SIDE, BEFORE SIMPLE GREEN SPRAY-DOWN....



LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE, 1 MINUTE AFTER SIMPLE GREEN WAS LIBERALLY APPLIED....




As per the suggestion, I'm going to leave it soaking all night then see what it looks like tomorrow.



HERE'S MY PAINT REMOVAL SECRET -- AEROSOL PAINT REMOVAL -- BUY IT AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORE -- TO REMOVE THE AWFUL BLUE PAINT FROM THE BACK WHEEL OF MY Z1R:



I LEAVE IT ON FOR ABOUT 1-3 HOURS THEN IT JUST FLAKES OFF, THEN YOU HIT IT AGAIN WITH THE AEROSOL IF THERE IS STILL PAINT ON THE WHEEL...




FRONT WHEEL BEFORE....




FRONT WHEEL AFTER.....NIIIIIIIIIICE. I will paint it later. Trying to get the bike back on the road first, then cosmetics.

That is very useful info. Always wondered if that aerosol worked or was just a gimmick.

Haybus wrote: That is very useful info. Always wondered if that aerosol worked or was just a gimmick.

I have 3 different products to strip paint:

- the aerosol can in my photo above, Dupli-Color Paint Stripper (active ingredient: Methylene Chloride)

- a 2nd aerosol can called "Kleen Strip's Aircraft Paint Remover for Flexible Plastic" -- also bought at an auto products supply store, O'Reilly Automotive here in Silicon Valley.
(Active ingredient -- Methanol and Methylene Chloride.)

- "Kleen Strip's KS-3 Paint Stripper" (active ingredient: Methylene Chloride)
This comes in a gallon can you can buy at hardware stores. You have to 'paint' it on with a
brush or similar applicator.


Now all 3 of the above products have the same active ingredient -- Methylene Chloride.
It's all the same stuff.

So I reckon the aerosol cans are just a lot easier to apply, nothing more. It's the same stuff.

I'm going to stick with the aerosol cans from now on -- the 'brush it on' gallon can is a hassle to apply. I did my front wheel with an initial coat of brush-on stuff and the aerosol cans I used were MUCH easier and much much faster to apply.

By the way, these products must NOT be used indoors -- inhaling the fumes can cause hepatitis, eyesight problems, etc. -- read the label. Inhaling the fumes if you're working indoors can create carbon monoxide in the bloodstream. This type of paint stripper has been illegal in Europe for 3 years now.

Sure does work good though!

Darn good stuff Methylene Chloride....it's an essential part of what I do. It's used by modelmakers to weld plexiglas, styrene, ABS and many other plastics together...and yes it just strips paint right off anything it touches with absolutely no lag time. You do have to be careful with the fumes....but I am OK everything is right side up really

Looking forward to the outcome of that Simple Green post.

Soak and hit with Nylon brush for hard oxidized areas...

Old Man Rock wrote: Soak and hit with Nylon brush for hard oxidized areas...

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OMR you are a miracle worker, I couldn't find that thread, that thread is where I got the advice on the "Simple Green", that's exactly why I bought my 3 spray bottles yesterday and doused my engine, your photos were real dang inspiring, maybe all the oxidation won't go away on my cases,they're real bad, but we'll see today in a few more hours.

That's amazing. Makes me want to split a set of cases just to try it out. Waiting to find out how your 24 hr wait time turns out.

The 'Simple Green' did not have the desired effect, even after scrubbing hard with a brush. The whitish oxidation ? or whitish remnant underlayment put on the engine pieces prior to chroming ? are still there, heavy whitish deposits on all parts of the formerly-chromed engine pieces.

Recall that my engine cases were chromed in the past (this is a weathered 1978 Kawasaki Z1R Kz1000D) and that the bike sat outside near the ocean since the early 1980s and that I mentioned all the chromed engine covers - the clutch cover, left side alternator cover, camshafts cover, countershaft sprocket cover -- that those pieces had all the chrome peeling off due to 30 years outside exposure to near-the-ocean air.

And here's what I started with after removing all the flakes of chrome:







So the Simple Green was *no* match for all this whitish crusty stuff on the engine cases.
I said to myself "Dang it I'll sand blast you suckers"


Before I remove and disassemble the motor to better blast at the pieces, I'm trying one final experiment with a semi-miraculous substance I use to remove oxidation on steel parts:



Before applying this to the motor I washed off all the Simple Green from yesterday's attempt using water.

I then poured some of this into a clean, never-been-used pump spray bottle (I bought a bunch of empty pump spray bottles at a janitorial supply, you can get them at hardware stores, Harbor Freight, etc.).

I sprayed liberally the entire motor with this 'Prep and Etch' and I'm going to let it sit overnight.

Any comments are appreciated!

I read phosporic on the label, if it contains phosporic acid I would test it on a piece of aluminum first as it can eat away at your metal.

Try WD-40 and a scotch brite pad on the clutch cover.
You will see and feel the results quickly , give it a spray every so often and wipe off the crud as it comes loose.

JD



5 mins of polishing

mopguy wrote: I read phosporic on the label, if it contains phosporic acid I would test it on a piece of aluminum first as it can eat away at your metal.

Thanks for the concern, good deal there, however this is safe for aluminum, it says:
"Phosphoric Prep & Etch"

"Klean-Strip® Phosphoric Prep & Etch does the job of three products: (1) Removes rust from iron and
steel surfaces, 2) treats metal surfaces, including galvanized and aluminum, to allow better paint adhesion, and (3) etches concrete to allow paint or stains to penetrate and adhere."


This is my first time using this phosphoric acid de-rust product on previously-chromed aluminum parts -- it's only an experiment to see if the whitish deposits will break free -- I've been wire-brushing the whitish deposits and they are baked on hard and so maybe this phosphoric acid product will loosen these whitish deposits up so my coarse wire brush will knock them loose.


Bluej58 I'm gonna try the WD40 and green scotch pad on it next. Thanks. Will post results of the phosphoric acid attempt tomorrow.