engine compression79 kz1000

I have got some good advice in the electrical forum.
On another issue. I assume i should post in different areas per problem. Correct me if im wrong.
i have a 1979 kz 1000 ltd. I bought a couple weeks ago and have been working on it when time permits.
Ok....... according to a reply in the other post i made is my frame is 79 ltd
The lower end of engin is 79 and the head is pre 79.
when i got the bike compression was 70 60 30 60 with carbs off. I did not try to start. I disadsembled carbs and had them dipped in an elecrosonic bath of some sort. No chem. Really worked great.
while the carbs where gone i drained oil and put diesel fuel in each cylinder and let it drain. Did this a few times along with some marvel mystery oil. I than sprayed wd40 in each cylinder. Let everything drain put new plugs in new oil.
Put carbs back on and fired it up. It did run. On choke only but i think thats because no air box which i have now.
when it ran it smoked really bad at first but did get less. I think it was burning off the diesel that was in there.
its been a week since i startted it due to an electrical issue. Which is now fixed(bad ground)
I did another compression test before i started it and was 85 65 85 90
I just did a nother test after it sat for a week and its 90 60 70 90
i sprayed wd40 in each cylinder and got 120 90 120 150.
bike has 47000 on the clock. I also adjusted valves before the second compression test they where all .002 or less than. 002
Any thoughts on thi engine and its condition?

Are tires and brakes good enough to test ride and maybe put a few miles on before performing a leak-down test?

Seafoam fuel additive might also help.

If not already done, would also lube and adjust the drive chain before riding.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: Are tires and brakes good enough to test ride and maybe put a few miles on before performing a leak-down test?

Seafoam fuel additive might also help.

If not already done, would also lube and adjust the drive chain before riding.

Good Fortune!

Tires are good enough for a few miles but i will be replaceing. I am rebuilding the calipers now. When done will lube chain and i neeed to adjust clutch but than should be ok for a ride.

davelKZ1000 wrote: ...1979 kz 1000 ltd...adjusted valves before the second compression test they where all .002 or less than. 002....[/attachment]

How much less?

Spec is .002"~.004" (0.05mm~0.10mm).

As known, too tight valve clearance may cause loss of compression.

Good Fortune!

I coyldnt fit the air box i bought on it. So i think i am gonna have to do the pods. I have stock exhaust
Will this be hard to get it to run right? Does it really matter if i buy the k&n verse the cheaper ones?
Thank you

Patton wrote:

davelKZ1000 wrote: ...1979 kz 1000 ltd...adjusted valves before the second compression test they where all .002 or less than. 002....[/attachment]

How much less?

Spec is .002"~.004" (0.05mm~0.10mm).

As known, too tight valve clearance may cause loss of compression.

Good Fortune!

I just couldnt get my. 002 guage under it. They are all within spec noww.

davelKZ1000 wrote: I coyldnt fit the air box i bought on it. So i think i am gonna have to do the pods. I have stock exhaust
Will this be hard to get it to run right? Does it really matter if i buy the k&n verse the cheaper ones?
Thank you

The carbs pictured are very user-friendly Mikuni 26mm mechanical slide carbs with side-located pilot air screw. If had to fit pods in lieu of airbox, these particular carbs would be first preference.

Okay to use the less expensive pods. Can upgrade later if desired. When fitting, assure the non-K&N pod rubber isn't obstructing any of the carb's small air intake holes.

Should be able to tune podded carbs for decent performance. As known, one pod issue is difficulty in gaining optimum performance throughout the entire range of carb function.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

davelKZ1000 wrote: I coyldnt fit the air box i bought on it. So i think i am gonna have to do the pods. I have stock exhaust
Will this be hard to get it to run right? Does it really matter if i buy the k&n verse the cheaper ones?
Thank you

The carbs pictured are very user-friendly Mikuni 26mm mechanical slide carbs with side-located pilot air screw. If had to fit pods in lieu of airbox, these particular carbs would be first preference.

Okay to use the less expensive pods. Can upgrade later if desired. When fitting, assure the non-K&N pod rubber isn't obstructing any of the carb's small air intake holes.

Should be able to tune podded carbs for decent performance. As known, one pod issue is difficulty in gaining optimum performance throughout the entire range of carb function.

Good Fortune!

Here is a vid of my kz with the pods. Its got a popping sound up by the engine. It doesnt sound like is coming from exhasust. Any thoughts.
hee is a pic of my plugs 1-4 left to right

that to me is for sure an exhaust leak...... i would not worry/focus on it.....keep moving ahead and deal with it when you have the exhaust off and can pput new squish rings/copper gaskets in the exhaust.... other than to EASY try and tighten each exhaust nut a tiny smidge while running the bike a second or two...so they dont get too hot...turn it on tighten one a smidge turn it off move to the next pipe and fire it up again........this also may not be great idea as those old crush copper rings might not have a smidge to give and it could pop the threads on a stud...bummer if the p.o had one wormed up and you give it a nudge and it strips...

but when i have that sound just like that one in your video...i set up and tighten each nut while running and find it...this is with a newer set of exhaust rings though...

carry an extra plug and wrench when you go for short rides like patton said....if the plugs look different from cyl to cyl it may foul one and you walk the few blocks home....cool project and even if it needs a lot...at least you heard it run before digging in....better than some deals imo

i listened to it again and i dont hear it as timing or a carb fart....but who knows...sounds like it gets some compression on a stroke better than other in one cylinder and psssst ....pssst.....pssst...it goes out the exh....

that many miles dont mean 100% that it is a valve.seats/rings/bore loose.....sea foam and a few rides may clean or free something up.....the condition of the bike may be a clue and the head swap alsoo...but it aint but ten bucks to clean it out with sea foam and see...

trianglelaguna wrote: i listened to it again and i dont hear it as timing or a carb fart....but who knows...sounds like it gets some compression on a stroke better than other in one cylinder and psssst ....pssst.....pssst...it goes out the exh....

Here is a little more vid.

I just dont know exactly what im listning for as far as it coming out the exhaust.
Sometimes it boggs down when i twist throttle that twist a little more and goes away.