TOPIC:

kiss engine internals goodbye, hope not having to see them again till season's end rebuild

apply some hi-zoot sealant (loctite anaerobic 518, a pleasure to work with)

button down engine and hang from ceiling

and install bottom end in frame

CoreyClough wrote:

I jsut remembered something. I have been told that back in the day, the racers would use one long bolt going from one side to the other on the front motor mounts, instead of the short ones that bolt the mount to the engine case. They said this would give extra support. Something I'll be looking into.

Reference number 92001F from the diagram above.

not a bad idea.... just need to find a umpteen inches long 10mm bolt in proper steel. dont think that some threaded bar will do

yep, know what you mean, just trying to avoid a three-four all-nighters in a row to finish, (like it happened with my first racer build...).

but its ok, looks like i am in track, i.e. start engine in two-three weeks.

Coming to think of it, if somebody would build it for me, that wouldnt be fun at all!!!!

TG

What oil are you planning on using? Redline 20w/50 here, and plan to change the oil and filter after every race weekend.

You shouldn't have to rebuild that bottom end at all, after all you are doing to it. Top end, maybe, but I can't see you doing the bottom.

I am also using a Daytona Oil Temperature Gauge (ShindyPro.com) tapped into the oil pan for oil temperatures, and checking it on a long straight, I'll see 208 degrees F regularily, and that using an oil cooler from a Zephyr ZR550 too. Being Oil Cooled, you gots-ta know.



I modified the low oil level sensor to fit the temp probe:






I was using a Dyna Shift Minder, but now am now use a Raptor Shift Light. Small, 3-wire connection, and easy to adjust at the light:
www.raptorperformance.com/

...as seen in this video set at Infineon last year:

Hmm, you seem familiar, TG. Come here often?

Glad to see the space age sealant is working out for you. Can't wait to see what your porting work yields!

i've been using for the past four seasons an sintetic shell oil which i dont think you have in the US. it's not a top of the line one, but I do indeed change it for every race meeting. No mechanical DNF's in four years.... touch wood.

never run into temperatures issues with my past race bike, so never felt the need for a thermometer, but sure, some people here do have them. 208 F which is 98 C, is actually pretty good for an air cooled, i've seen aircooled Ducs getting up to 102-103 C (217 F). You can expect to see much higher readings the moment you'll start going for really high compression, hot cams, etc. If i recall, your motor is pretty stock other than the big bore kit no?

I open up the bottom end after every season even if there is no trouble. Better check stuff before the shit hits the fan. One time i discovered the primary chain was on its way out and another a badly worn shift fork. A complete tear down every off season is really worth it to ensure no DNF's in the season. works for me

left side of motor closed,

left only a slice of the sprocket cover to support the gear change shaft. the little arm at the shaft's end had to be custom cut and rewelded to work outside the frame tube

tacho mounted and wired