TOPIC:

Nice looking motor and carbs. Ditch those plastic jets, they are typically poorly made and inaccurate. I make a point of using genuine items for carbs as removing them for tweaking is a royal pain and todays' fuels probably don't help them either.
nice progress.
David

Thanks for the advice guys.
Will start with 120 25 and take it from there.
I think it will take me another 2-3 weeks before I can start the beast
Headers will be arriving end of the week and then I have to fit something between the end of the collector and my exhaust.
Also need to fabricate a bracket to keep everything in place.

Minor setback, my left front caliper is leaking took a change with the old seals and lost.
Have to take them apart and see what the problem is.

Eric

Licence plate holder and blinker, done.





Throttle cables from a ZZR600 , done.
Hydraulic clutch, done?!









I cut 5 mm of the clutch shaft.
Bled the line and have a cylinder moving.
However..... it moves only for about 2mm, is this enough for the clutch to disengage?




Headers will be arriving end of the week.
Carbs are fitted with 122 main jets (metal ones)
Hope first start in about 3 weeks.

the bike looks awesome wiers!!!
i'm a lil curious about you having vibration (metal fatigue/cracking)issues with your flat sheet metal tail light bracket tho .?
it seems an upright piece of sheetmetal on edge welded or rivited in line between the frame and the back of the light could go a long way to damping the vibes there.
bike turned out great thanks for letting us follow along.

leon

p.s.how long did your clutch cover spacers end up being?

leon

Hi Leon,
You are right about the tail light bracket, I am gonna change that to something with a vertical piece of metal.

The spacers are the standard length from D&G, I just put the piston against the rod and measured the distance between the hydrailic clutch and the D&G plate.
This was about 5 mm and this is wat I cut of the rod.
Now the unit unit is flush with the D&G plate and the ball of the piston is gently pushing against the rod.
After bleeding the line the springs of the clutch keeps the piston at its place (it is much stronger than the spring behind the piston).
My only concern is that it moves for only 2 mm (see pictures) and wonder if that is enough the disengage the clutch.
Thanks for following my build and for your positive input.

Eric

Lovely work Wiers....I think you may have to harden the end of the push rod having cut off that 5mm. I believe they came with both ends hardened from the factory.

Wiers wrote: Hi Leon,
You are right about the tail light bracket, I am gonna change that to something with a vertical piece of metal.

The spacers are the standard length from D&G, I just put the piston against the rod and measured the distance between the hydrailic clutch and the D&G plate.
This was about 5 mm and this is wat I cut of the rod.
Now the unit unit is flush with the D&G plate and the ball of the piston is gently pushing against the rod.
After bleeding the line the springs of the clutch keeps the piston at its place (it is much stronger than the spring behind the piston).
My only concern is that it moves for only 2 mm (see pictures) and wonder if that is enough the disengage the clutch.
Thanks for following my build and for your positive input.

Eric

What Clutch Slave Cylinder are you using?

I do not know from which bike the clutch slave cylinder is.
It came in a box of parts with the bike.
I think it is from a Kawa and have seen it a lot on this forum.

About the rod ends, how can you harden them?

Eric

I don't think that's necessary.
Steve

It isn't necessary to harden the shaft on the pusher. Drag race buddy who is the local god of Kawi engines says the clutch only opens about 80 thousands of an inch when working properly. You may find another bleed after riding a bit may allow a little bit more air to escape, it doesn't take much to soften the action.
Good luck
David

Thanks,
That takes care of one problem.
On to the next....




Throttle cable, Dyna Coils and wiring are all fighting for the same space
And the winner is..

The fuel tank
The fuel tank is hitting my welded braces and does not leave any room in the front for electrical kabels.
When looking under the tank I found this.


It looks that there is an option of welding the rod one point further backward.
Is that for other model tanks??
Not an option for me because if I put it further backwards My seat would not fit anymore.
Only option I have is taking the grinder and start attacking the frame.
And lifting the backend a bit by taping some foam under the tank rubbers.



Also my front brakes started leaking again
Taking the day off tomorrow.

I'd be worried about the tank leaking. Maybe denting it in those places?
Steve