TOPIC:

...and so first mystery I could use help with. I installed a set of AllBalls tapered steering head bearings...

...and promptly discovered that the bearing stack is much thicker than stock as usual, and that has the top bridge sitting pretty high on the cap and nut, as shown.

It seems like my options are pretty limited:

- Live with it, although that will in effect raise the fork tubes 10mm for good or ill.

- Machine the notched nut thinner to try and get it on their solidly.

I did not photo this when it came apart, does the top edge of the steering stem indeed sit flush with the top clamp normally?

N.

Couplea Hondas! Yeah, I go both ways

I don't think that's much of a problem. With that tool did you get the races seated all the way? There has to be some adjustment room and that's where it is. I didn't use a tool like that but driving in the races wasn't that easy. You might try heating up the outside of the neck to see if you can get a few more cranks in. After I put mine together, I rode it, then noticed my preload went away. I tightened it down again but it needs another adjustment a year later. It doesn't rock but the steering is a little loose.
Steve

If the bike turns out half as nice as the shop it will be a beauty! Ed

I was thinking the taper on the lower part of that tool might have spread the race a tad. Heating up the outside of the neck with a heat gun might allow the race to seat all the way in. I did have a gap in my top tree. That's normal.
Steve

Ok, thanks a bunch fellas, much appreciated. The top bearing is a lot taller than the stock ball bearings, that's what I think is causing this. I confess it has me a tad concerned, sitting so low in there.

That's a Park Tools bearing press, designed for this very task. Makes very short work of this, perfect every time. I measured the height of the bearing race before I pressed it in so I could verify that it was all the way home, and it is.

N.

You're good to go.
Steve

I did that steering bearing conversion and don't recall that much of a difference. Try using a 90 degree pich and feel under the races for any gaps. There is some difference, but I don't remeber that much. The top bearing was pretty thin IIRC.

NobleHops wrote:
I am thinking a set of Hagon shocks would work well. Any advice along those lines?

www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/web...GON_TWIN_SHOCKS.html

I got mine from Dave Quinn and they still look great and work like new 8 years / 12,000 miles later. I highly recommend them. Dave set mine up for me just right. Ed

NobleHops wrote: Couplea Hondas! Yeah, I go both ways

And an H2!

Yeah, not for long though, that bike sold in 2 hours on eBay last week, is getting pickud up next week.

650ed wrote:

NobleHops wrote:
I am thinking a set of Hagon shocks would work well. Any advice along those lines?

www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/web...GON_TWIN_SHOCKS.html

I got mine from Dave Quinn and they still look great and work like new 8 years / 12,000 miles later. I highly recommend them. Dave set mine up for me just right. Ed

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I just did swap emails with them, nice folks, but Hagon is dragging their heels on orders at the moment, so although that was the first choice, I'm gonna look at IKON now too.