TOPIC:

Finally got the bugger out! Does anyone know if the case bolts are a hardened steel? Judging by the number of drill bits I went through, I'd have to assume so. Looking for a suitable replacement for the one that snapped..

Headed out to get the helicoil kit now.
Planning to replace the crankshaft oil seal while I'm in here. Any other seals I'm missing?
Glad to be back on track!

For something Like that I think I would stay away from helicoils and go with a barrel insert. Far stronger and permanent.

Okay, Starting to make process on the cleanup. Right now I'm scrubbing the cases by hand with some simple green. I have access to a parts washer in town that I could use for $15. Will that cut through this thick grime?

Also, moving forward, how the heck to I keep these cases clean?? I'd hate to paint them at this point, but would that even help in regards to how easy they are to clean?
Couple more questions: Any good tricks for removing old liquid gasket that had dripped down the sides of the cases?

Finally, what kind of gasket maker do you guys recommend for sealing the cases back up?
Thanks!

Use real gaskets not gasket maker stuff. Ed

I think he means the case halves, look up yamabond or 1104 gasket maker, then of course real gaskets outside of that.

That's what I needed, thanks!

I'm at the point where I can't decide whether I want to leave the engine bare, clear coat, or paint.

After all this hard work getting the engine clean (scrubbing by hand, blasting is out of budget ((baby on the way)), I'd hate to have the engine just get dirty again once it's up and running.
Would painted cases be easier to clean?
Or, is the majority of the grime on the cases simply due to leaks, and if sealed correctly, the engine will ultimately stay a lot cleaner?

Having the engine completely torn down, I'd hate to do anything less than a proper job here.

The engine is going to get dirty; there is no way around it. Black will hide the dirt better than bare. if not maintained and you live in a very wet climate the aluminum will oxidize. You could clear coat, but most clears will yellow over time. Personally I would polish it best I could and once a year do a real thorough job cleaning it and it will stay looking nice for a long time. You may not be able to stop the head gasket leak. I have not seen a 400 that didn't weep a little oil there. just clean it and repeat.
FWIW I have a buddy that swears by this technique but i have never done it. After you clean the engine, let it warm up, then spray the whole thing down with WD40 so it saturates the pores in the aluminum. Do a light wipe/rinse after. Apparently it makes removing grime way easier because it never gets "in" the the aluminum, and will combat oxidization. Ive never had a issue with a little elbow grease so i have never tried this .

Ive used cast aluminum engine paint on several projects with good results. It's much easier to clean and gives it a nice uniform appearance when used on the jugs, heads, cases, etc. Then polish the engine covers.

Way to dig in to the project man. Best of luck.

While leaving the engine bare was clearly the most durable way to go, I got to looking at photos of just engines, and the coordination between painted/polished/bare parts was just magic to me. So considering that, I'll be painting the lower end, and leaving/polishing parts of the upper.

I needed to build a spray booth for my airbrushing/clearcoating endeavors, so I set that as a priority before I started painting the cases. Now that it's done, I can spray fume-free through the winter. (A necessity with baby #1 one the way!). Here are a couple photos of the booth/primer, and black paint. Will give it a good cure in the oven this evening before my wife gets home..

Nice paint booth! I might have to borrow that set up idea. Although humidity is my worst enemy as I live in Florida. I can on ly clear coat in the winter. I'm sure part of you looks forward to finishing the project and part of you dreads carrying it back up the stairs.