TOPIC:

most probably too big.
i use resize.it/advanced-online-photo-tools.html

choose file
make the image exactly this height in pixels [817]
make the image exactly this width in pixels [1089]
hit the [okay]button.

when the picture pops up just right click(somewhere outside of the crop box) and save it to your files.and it will be re-sized .
they will then be this size.



kinda a pain in the bootay but it works .

leon

p.s. you can actually go back and edit your previous post and add the re-sized pictures into it if you want.


p.s.s. click my picture and see that they still get big and hold there detail.

Oh, here's a picture of my Z1-R as an example. Way to rub it in Leon. Why don't you just throw in all X3 pictures

Alan

Yeah anyway! Damn, that is one sexy bike you have Leon. I love Z1-r's and MkII's, I have a pic of one as my desktop for the past few months, drool...
Me haz idea now... If it is in fact picture size I might be able to post that pic since I did find it on the forum anyway.

Definitely think its size related issue I'll give the resize program a shot and see what happens. In the future I think I'll set my camera to take smaller images and that should solve it.

-

Yay!! it works, Thanks for sharing that with me Leon, gonna put that one in the bookmarks lol

glad you found it useful.

it seems if you set your camera to 8 megapixels that they are a good size for posting to the internet.

leon

It’s been a month and I'm finally getting to the end of the wiring process and I think I have come up with a semi-neat design to fit under the seat. I made a platform to mount as much of the stuff to as I could above the main tray. The idea is that I placed the components essential to the bike running and require the least amount of maintenance on the lower side and the relays and fuse holder and 'gizmo' on the top. Ah, the gizmo...

I wanted to incorporate regular automotive relays into the stock wiring harness to take the load off the switches and bypass 30 years of corrosion and to have the circuits fused through modern ATO fuses. I’m also running a halogen bulb from my Datsun for now and might upgrade to a HID bulb like I replaced the halogens with, but it is so much brighter than the old bulb! I used the voltage signal from the headlight switch and ignition kill switch to control the relays and allowed battery voltage to be sent directly to the head and tail lights through their own fuses. The coil is also fused, although I’m not sure what the amperage rating should be. Ohm’s Law states V=I/R, so with the generic coil at 0.6ohms and a ~12 volt system it will be ~7.2Amps and with two coils drawing at only milliseconds apart it will be higher, plus whatever the coil drivers draw, etc… It may be a trial and error type of thing. Or it’s simply not necessary and I can wire it directly Only the white power wire is be a direct, fused, connection to the ignition switch, as it is stock, which I tied the speedometer into for its memory function. In fact all of the connections to the speedo (constant 12V, ground, and switched 12V) were available at the headlight area of the harness via bullet connections. Yes, a handmade harness would have made this much simpler and cleaner and one day it would be nice to fab a complete harness from scratch, but I just couldn’t bring myself to do it this time around; I got two other projects requiring specially loomed engine harnesses and I don’t want to get burned out on it too soon. But at least for now I have a bike that has lights and even turns over, boy it sounds nice to hear that again I’ll get some pics posted of the electrical tray and detail the ignition system I’m working on to explain what the “gizmo” is
Happy wrenching!

You're getting there! Wiring is such a pain, especially if you're chasing an old circuit that you're not sure where an issue could be. Before I changed my fuse box over to the box fuse type, I had a headlight issue. Chased my wiring, cleaned all connectors, checked the fuse... Turns out the cap on one side of the fuse was corroded... Out with the old fuse box, in with the new.

Keep up the great work, she's almost there

Absolutely its a pain! I ended up with just one left over wire, the blue/white wire from the headlight switch. Not sure how I missed it. Tracing the wiring diagram, It gets a little confusing because Kawasaki has spliced wires of different flavors together and shows some wires running together for different systems. Definitely made it difficult to try to reroute things, so I based my relay setup on actual readings I took from the harness with power connected. The "ON" switch was traditionally just for the taillights and the"PO" switch turned the headlight on. Now both come on at the "ON" position. I guess that okay though, because the load is on the relay now; I figured that, without the wiring diagram to tell me back then, I simply connected like colors. Now I have a "dead" switch but if I install another relay and connect everything properly at the harness I could control the relay through the blue/white wire and route power to the dimmer switch via the blue wire as normal. Here I go again... can't leave well enough alone

Awesome Project!

Not to change the topic, but...



I could smell that Zcar from a mile away.
A had a few 25 years ago. Some of my clothes still smell like Z exhaust.
A right angle tip on the muffler, pointed out towards the left side, extended as far out as possible, about flush with the side bumper, will get rid of a lot, if not all of the fumes.

Glad you picked up on it, Lou, that was my dd for the past 5 years. Unfortunately while rebuilding the suspension last summer I came to the conclusion that the rear left corner of the car had been tweaked pretty badly. So I had to take it off the road. Plus, I have come to realize that my restoration skills in high school are not what they could be now and some areas haven't stood the test of time, or Virginia's road salt. I pretty much have to re-restore the car, but at least I have a brand new suspension under it. It was in pretty rough shape when it came to me, from Colorado. No floors and the frame half rotted out, the lower quarters were gone and the tail panel and left rocker were mangled. Hard to believe I turned it into a driving car. I'm also finishing up a 79' 280zx that is thankfully in far better condition (CA car). I hear ya, about the exhaust, the only way to address it for me was to seal up every hole in the back of the car with strategic applications of duct tape and sealant. Worked great over the last year like that!

And thanks for your help with the ignition also, Lou I am making headway with it, thanks to your help. I have managed to get the pick-ups to trigger the HEI modules and produce sparks with the bias circuit and some ballast to the coil. Next, is seeing if it will work without frying one of the modules.