TOPIC:

Just don't get too carried away with the pressure washer. You don't want to blast any water past the seals and into the engine. Ed

I know. I'll be keeping the engine on the washer revved down. Just cleaning it up for a show this weekend. I get complements on it all the time I figured I should show it

I need to respoke the wheels and I'm having trouble finding spokes that say they're made for the C2. What other bikes had the same wheels?

nitsua93 wrote: I need to respoke the wheels and I'm having trouble finding spokes that say they're made for the C2. What other bikes had the same wheels?

If you plan to put new spokes in a KZ650-C2 wheel you will need a hacksaw and a welder. All KZ650-C models came with cast / machined alloy wheels (that's why you cannot find spokes made for a C2). Also, all KZ650-C models started life with a disk brake in the rear and dual disks up front. See link below for picture of a KZ650-C2. Your bike has spoked (wire) wheels with a drum brake in the rear and a single disk on the front, so you will need to first determine what model bike you have or what the wheels are from. What is the beginning of your bike's VIN stamped in the steering neck? If it begins with KZ650C..... someone changed your wheels, if it starts with anything else, it is not a KZ650-C model. Ed

kzrider.com/gallery/kz-650/h2ricks-kz650c2-stocker-2922

I was wrong! It's a KZ650 B2!

Bike is running really great and I just received the shorty shocks today. My current problems are that the bike isn't charging the battery and I'll go through about 5 gallons of gas in 30 miles. Which is very bad! I'm assuming my float needles are sticking. Any suggestions?

Nitsua check your pm's

Time for a project update! I had to replace the ignition Dyna ignition plate as one of the modules fried. I replaced it with the updated model and replaced the coils with 3 OHM Dynas. Very pleased with how it runs and cold starts (32*F). I also put my shorty shocks on and powder coated the megaphone. I may ditch the megaphone for a 90* dump, not sure yet.

Currently, the biggest problem I'm having is with a high idle and the RPMs floating when I let of the throttle. I can't seem to get it to consistently idle at 1,000 RPMS. Even with adjusting the timing and adjusting the idle screw. The carbs do need synced, which I may do this week. Depends on when I can borrow the vacuum set from a friend. I know a lean condition can cause the RPMs to float and come down slowly, but if anything it runs rich. Any suggestions?

Pictures show powdercoated megaphone and shorty shocks. I'm going to powdercoat the tank and other items soon, just need to decide the color route I will take. I'm thinking of staying with the red on black scheme.

Also, I can only run the bike with petcock set to prime. If I move it to the run of prime positions it will drain the bowls after about 3 minutes and die. Is it okay to run on prime? I'm assuming I'll flood the bowls and end up draining out of the overflow tubes, but it hasn't happened yet.

Is the vacuum line connected from the petcock to carb #2? Ed

650ed wrote: Is the vacuum line connected from the petcock to carb #2? Ed

Yet it is. It does appear to be pumping. The filter is also new.

nitsua93 wrote: I know that putting it in the middle position is prime. I just don't know what the up and down positions are. I know it runs when I point the handle up. I can no longer read what's on the petcock.


Update: I think I solved my hard start. #2 wasn't sparking and upon inspection the brand new plug was damaged. Put the old plug in and it fired right up and #2 fired great. I now need to get the carbs synced. I may just buy new carbs. Someone locally has freshly rebuilt, super sonic cleaned carbs with extra jets.

I have a very clean set with 110 mains and 17.5 pilot. Shipped from Alabama, $200.00. If interested PM you email address and I'll send some pictures to you.