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Then I hand lapped each piston to exactly the same length. This I am unsure of wheter it will help, but another great friend of mine, always made sure the brake drums on the cars he did were all the exact same diameter, so they all engage at the same time.

This makes sense so I thought I would try it. The pistons had a .003" range of size difference. .8435"-.8465", now they all measure exactly .843".

We'll see if this all helps the "feel' of the front brakes on the track.

Just thought I would share this, to see if any of you have input.

Wow, I could never get the front drum brakes on my '72 Cutlass to engage at the same time, even after adjusting and adjusting and adjusting...all new parts too except the drums...they were turned! Probably to different diameters....sold the car 3 years ago...now you tell me!

Great info though, thanks for sharing. What type of wheel do you use to buff that stuff?

Oh sorry about the Cutlass !! That is unfortunate. I learned of this with my 71 Dart, another resto project. My buddy Dan was painstakingly measuring and cutting on the drums, so I asked "why"? He also hand polished the drum surface... he was a brake "Surgeon". the car would stop beautifully as long as you did not cook em (over 90 mph in a hurry). But hey that was the Mopar right !!

That car would stop Dead straight... very unusual for a Mopar.

The buffing wheel is "cotton" left over from polishing the KZ motor, I think about 3 inch diameter. I bought all kinds of stuff from "Tar heel parts Inc". They are absolutely the greatest. All kinds of good advice, we polished about 4 bikes I think using their recipes, advice and products. good to talk to on the phone they will walk you thru any polishing process.

www.tarheelparts.com/catalog.pdf

very interesting. i never thought about polishing the pistons. good job. dont know if i could feel that kind off subtlety, but why not try. i did polish the damping rods in my forks though. u may want to do that. i bought racetech gold valves, and springs for my 01 cbr6 track bike (very similar to your R6). in the instructions, it recommends polishing them with 400 wet dry to improve sticsion. i used 400 then 600.
i bought braided lines,a newer zx6 radial master, and Friction Performance pads for my brake upgrades. they work as good as i need. no trouble getting the back wheel off the ground with 2 fingers. the pads give me a more sensitive and progressive feel. most notably while trail braking.
put some cable ties around your fork legs, to measure there travel while braking. if u are using almost all of the travel u need more stronger springs or more preload .

Roger that good stuff Mark !!

So while we are waiting for the KZ to get the Dyno treatment, I have a great oopuritunity to make some KZ parts in the Machine Shop I work in. We have 56,000 sq ft. of bulding seperated into a screw machine dept., Lathe dept., and Milling department.

Here is a good question for you KZ fellas...

If I made 25 sets of rearsets Would you be interested? They would need to be just the bracket part, this is due to the large variety of braking systems used by all of us, each one requiring a different linkage and pedal set-up. So I am thinking of reproducing the footrest brackets I roughed out for mine. You would then need to add pegs, and linkage.

If you do not like that, then suggest something. Our shop would like to take one idea from each Manager ( I am one of those) and see if we can come up with a product we can sell in limited numbers. Experimental stuff.

Suggestions??

tk11b40 wrote: So while we are waiting for the KZ to get the Dyno treatment, I have a great oopuritunity to make some KZ parts in the Machine Shop I work in. We have 56,000 sq ft. of bulding seperated into a screw machine dept., Lathe dept., and Milling department.

Here is a good question for you KZ fellas...

If I made 25 sets of rearsets Would you be interested? They would need to be just the bracket part, this is due to the large variety of braking systems used by all of us, each one requiring a different linkage and pedal set-up. So I am thinking of reproducing the footrest brackets I roughed out for mine. You would then need to add pegs, and linkage.

If you do not like that, then suggest something. Our shop would like to take one idea from each Manager ( I am one of those) and see if we can come up with a product we can sell in limited numbers. Experimental stuff.

Suggestions??

can u give us a visual ? do u have a similar mount on your bike now ?
how about a points cover with a slant. like the Yosh ones for road racing. it could say KZ on it or something ?
aluminum motor mounts are popular.
i will email u some pic's/ideas.

Will the rear sets fit my "KZ" 100?

mark1122 wrote:

tk11b40 wrote: So while we are waiting for the KZ to get the Dyno treatment, I have a great oopuritunity to make some KZ parts in the Machine Shop I work in. We have 56,000 sq ft. of bulding seperated into a screw machine dept., Lathe dept., and Milling department.

Here is a good question for you KZ fellas...

If I made 25 sets of rearsets Would you be interested? They would need to be just the bracket part, this is due to the large variety of braking systems used by all of us, each one requiring a different linkage and pedal set-up. So I am thinking of reproducing the footrest brackets I roughed out for mine. You would then need to add pegs, and linkage.

If you do not like that, then suggest something. Our shop would like to take one idea from each Manager ( I am one of those) and see if we can come up with a product we can sell in limited numbers. Experimental stuff.

Suggestions??

can u give us a visual ? do u have a similar mount on your bike now ?
how about a points cover with a slant. like the Yosh ones for road racing. it could say KZ on it or something ?
aluminum motor mounts are popular.
i will email u some pic's/ideas.

Attachment yoshpointcover.jpg not found

That's actually a Moriwaki logo, you can buy Moriwaki points covers straight form Moriwaki. モリワキ

This is Yoshimura's logo: ヨシムラ A Yoshimura points cover would be bitching! I'd buy two, one to hang in my office!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

This is a great idea, except for the copywrite problem.

The points cover, would be easy to make, 1 lathe Op, 1 mill op. I just need a different Logo.

I will look into this, the part is possible.

Thats why i thought it should say something else on it.
like Kawi, KZ or KZR